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Ascent of King Peak in 2004-05

Climber: David Hart

Date:May, 2004
Ascent Type:Successful Summit Attained
Peak:King Peak
    Location:Canada-Yukon Territory
    Elevation:16972 ft / 5173 m

Ascent Trip Report

Our fourth attempt on King Peak was successful. Twice unsuccessful on the southwest ridge, and a prior attempt on the east ridge. THis ascent was from the east ridge. Paul and Carolyn Barry and I skied in from the Alaska Border after being dropped off by Paul Swanstrom out of Haines, immediately after a successful ascent of Mount Fairweather. We were acclimated from that trip. It is an easy 3-day ski to 14,200 above King Col where we set up our base camp. Our summit day was 24 hours round trip. Steep snow and some ice climbing, using running belays. Summited at midnight in the summer dusk. Descended all night long, several rappels over some bergshrunds. Found some old fixed line that facilitated descending the mid-mountain steep snow slopes, lookers right of our ascent route.
skied back out to the Alaska border 2 days later for pick up by Paul Claus of Ultima Thule, and our awaiting car in Chitina.
Beautiful peak with great views of Logan and climbers in the King Trench.
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