Ascent of Elbrus on 2012-09-16

Climber: Matthias Ihl

Others in Party:Elisabeth Pahl (guide)
Katharina Lustig
Thomas Wernhart
Date:Sunday, September 16, 2012
Ascent Type:Successful Summit Attained
    Elevation:18510 ft / 5641 m

Ascent Trip Report

Hiked up to 3700 m (cabin) from 2350 m (Azau station near Terskol) on the 12th of September. The next day we did an acclimatization climb up to 4700 m (above Pastuhova rocks). Then we had a planned rest day on the 14th and another day off due to bad weather (snow storm) on the 15th. We finally started our summit attempt on the 16th at 1:00 am and made the summit around 10:30 am. Thomas and Katharina looked slow and weak up until the saddle, but then made a very good effort and got to the summit with us (Liza Pahl and me). (Liza told me that I was extremely fit even though she wouldn't have thought it when she first saw me.)
Liza wanted us to use a snow cat to ascent from 3700 m to 4700 m on summit day, which we objected to. This in turn caused a big problem with Liza and our guide-client relationship never recovered.
Summary Total Data
    Route Conditions:
Unmaintained Trail, Glacier Climb
    Gear Used:
Ice Axe, Crampons, Guide, Hut Camp
    Weather:Snowing, Frigid, Windy

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