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Ascent of Ingalls Peak on 2012-07-04

Climber: Noel Howe

Date:Wednesday, July 4, 2012
Ascent Type:Successful Summit Attained
Peak:Ingalls Peak
    Location:USA-Washington
    Elevation:7662 ft / 2335 m

Ascent Trip Report

Did East Ridge of Ingalls with Steve, Kat, Heather, Sean (my rope-mate), and Curtis -- a stong, fun team. We had a blue-bird day with specatular views of the west ridge of Stuart, Rainier, Adams, and zillions of surrounding peaks. The climbing was mostly straight-forward with only a couple of tricky moves (e.g., the whaleback on the second pitch and the crux move on the 5th pitch).

We camped near the Esmeralda TH and didn't get too much sleep Tuesday night -- 3 or 4 hours. Got up at 4:15am and meet the group at the TH at 5am. We did a bit of gear organization and then starting hiking at about 5:30am. After the first mile or so, the remainder of the approach was on snow.

We got to the pass about 7am and then near the base of climb at about 8:30am. At the base of the last snowfield before the climb we dumped big packs, harnessed up, and then Sean and I had to put on crampons and kick steps up to the transition zone (the couloir was in shadow and had a couple inches of hard snow on top of an unconsolidated later). This slowed us down a bit but was no big deal.

The transition from the snow to the rock was a bit dicey and so was the scramble up to the first belay station -- very slippery serpentine. Once we got climbing things got into a good rhythm with only a bit of waiting due to our 3 rope teams. The steps on the first pitch were fun (start low right and work your way up and to the left). The rest of climbing was fun and not too difficult. We topped out at about 2pm.

We rapped down the South Face (a double rope, then a single rope, then a double rope raps), picked up our packs, then sprinted for the cars. Made it back to the cars at 7:30pm and home at about 10:30pm. A fantastic day.
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