Ascent of Horseshoe Peak on 2022-07-17

Climber: Reed Russell

Other People:Solo Ascent
Only Party on Mountain
Date:Sunday, July 17, 2022
Ascent Type:Successful Summit Attained
Peak:Horseshoe Peak
    Elevation:8480 ft / 2584 m

Ascent Trip Report

I'll add a full report in the coming days, but for now:

Camped at Sahale Glacier, departed camp the next day at around 0730, summit around 1200. Snow finger leading down from the rib to the basin is in great shape. Was able to stay on snow pretty much the entirety of the basin traverse, stayed along the 6600' contour line until beginning an ascending traverse to the point where most people split off for either Horseshoe or Buckner. Lots of running water up until this point.

The ledge leading up the summit block begins as wide and easily negotiable, but then narrows considerably toward the top, and if you're tall and awkward like me, the overhang presents some challenges. I felt like I was crawling for a few feet before I was able to reach the carabiner on the rap sling. I did this solo, and was not super excited about it, a fall below the final summit move would almost certainly be fatal, as expressed by Alden in his TR.

Summit register was completely waterlogged and ruined, so I left a new rite in the rain pad and sharpie in the tube. The rap back down is more of a silly backwards walk down the ledge since I only brought a 30m. To note, the rap station is currently utilizing one piece of strap webbing, and one piece of cordelette with a carabiner.
Summary Total Data
    Total Elevation Gain:8557 ft / 2608 m
    Total Elevation Loss:2236 ft / 681 m
    Route Conditions:
Road Hike, Maintained Trail, Unmaintained Trail, Open Country, Snow on Ground, Scramble, Exposed Scramble, Rock Climb, Snow Climb
    Gear Used:
Ice Axe, Crampons, Rope, Ski Poles, Bivouac
Ascent Statistics
    Gain on way in:8557 ft / 2608 m
        Gain Breakdown:Net: 6321 ft / 1926 m; Extra: 2236 ft / 681m
    Loss on way in:2236 ft / 681 m
    Distance:23.4 mi / 37.7 km
    Route:Horseshoe Basin/SE Face
    Start Trailhead:Eldorado TH  2159 ft / 658 m
Descent Statistics
GPS Data for Ascent/Trip

 GPS Waypoints - Hover or click to see name and lat/long
Peaks:  climbed and  unclimbed by Reed Russell
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Note: GPS Tracks may not be accurate, and may not show the best route. Do not follow this route blindly. Conditions change frequently. Use of a GPS unit in the outdoors, even with a pre-loaded track, is no substitute for experience and good judgment. accepts NO responsibility or liability from use of this data.

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