Ascent of Dallas Peak on 2011-06-26

Climber: Dave Janecek

Others in Party:Stephen Gallegos
Date:Sunday, June 26, 2011
Ascent Type:Successful Summit Attained
Peak:Dallas Peak
    Elevation:13809 ft / 4208 m

Ascent Trip Report

June 26 was too early for this ascent this year. The east face was mostly a snow climb with a bit of class 3-4 rock which was largely wet from melting snow. Conditions made it nearly impossible to move out onto the north face for the standard finish. We retreated from this and found a rock pitch on the northeast corner of the summit block. It is only about 10-20 feet right of the standard rappel route. There is a delicate move around a loose flake into a shallow chimney. The chimney has good holds but is hard to protect. An awkward step under a roof right at the top finishes the pitch. I felt it was about 5.8 but that was in mountain boots with a fairly large pack. 5.6 is probably more realistic. I have found no info on this route but there was an old piton about half way up.
Summary Total Data
    Total Elevation Gain:4700 ft / 1432 m
    Grade/Class:Grade II, 5.6
    Quality:8 (on a subjective 1-10 scale)
    Route Conditions:
Scramble, Rock Climb, Snow Climb
    Gear Used:
Ice Axe, Crampons, Rope
    Weather:Cool, Breezy, Clear
Ascent Statistics
    Gain on way in:4700 ft / 1432 m
    Route:standard with summit block variation
    Start Trailhead:9109 ft / 2776 m
Descent Statistics

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