Ascent of Grand Teton on 2011-07-11

Climber: Daryn Dodge

Others in Party:Matt Hengst (leader)
Kathy Rich
Date:Monday, July 11, 2011
Ascent Type:Successful Summit Attained
Peak:Grand Teton
    Elevation:13770 ft / 4197 m

Ascent Trip Report

Climbed the Wall Street-Upper Exum route,rated 5.4. Camped the first night at one of several campsites among the boulders in the Lower Moraine area. Still heavy snow around us due to a big winter, but not on the technical section. Started for the peak at 4 am the next morning. Reaching the Lower Saddle, we started up the standard O-S route, then breaking off for Wall Street after some searching for the route. Used protection to squeeze around the narrow ledge at the end of Wall Street, then on the first pitch up the Golden Staircase. Didn't pull out the rope for the Wind Tunnel section, but did for the 2 pitches of the Friction Pitch. Actually, had some trouble finding the beginning of the Friction Pitch partly because one the very few ducks on the route misled us here. We missed the V Pitch by going to the right around it on soft snow. But the short lie-back immediately after we protected. It was a low-exposure move but an awkward move. From here, it was class 2-3 to the top. Hit the summit about 1 pm, then came down the 2 raps on the O-S descent route.
Summary Total Data
    Total Elevation Gain:7000 ft / 2133 m
    Round-Trip Distance:16 mi / 25.7 km
    Route:Wall Street-Upper Exum
    Trailhead:Lupine Trailhead  6770 ft / 2063 m
    Grade/Class:Class 5.4
    Quality:9 (on a subjective 1-10 scale)
    Route Conditions:
Maintained Trail, Scramble, Rock Climb, Snow Climb
    Gear Used:
Ice Axe, Crampons, Rope
Ascent Statistics
    Time:3 Days 

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