Ascent of Luahna Peak on 2021-08-11

Climber: Gretchen Lentz

Others in Party:Gordon Smith
Date:Wednesday, August 11, 2021
Ascent Type:Successful Summit Attained
Peak:Luahna Peak
    Elevation:8400 ft / 2560 m

Ascent Trip Report

Did a cross-country traverse from High Pass, scrambled Napeequa Peak, and stayed high on ridge to get over to the Butterfly Glacier. Decided accessing the Butterfly glacier was risky with solid ice and unknown moat problem getting off, so we dropped down and then traversed over to the Pilz Glacier. Walked up the slabs to access the Pilz Glacier as high as possible and got to the saddle at 7800 ft. There was a moat, but fortunately not too bad getting off and then could scramble up the mud/rocks to the saddle. We decided against dropping down to do the usual route on Luahna because it looked possible to scramble directly up from the saddle on the nothwest ridge. We stayed on the ridge as much as possible and it went well! I don't see any route description in Beckey on this and 2 Mountaineer's route descriptions both say they dropped down from the saddle.
Summary Total Data
    Route Conditions:
Scramble, Glacier Climb
    Gear Used:
Ice Axe, Crampons, Rope, Ski Poles
    Weather:Hot, Calm, Clear

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