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Ascent of Luahna Peak on 2021-07-23

Climber: Mike Stuckey

Date:Friday, July 23, 2021
Ascent Type:Successful Summit Attained
Peak:Luahna Peak
    Location:USA-Washington
    Elevation:8400 ft / 2560 m

Ascent Trip Report

It's the perfect time of year to get Luahna via the scramble route from Clark's south ridge. The stream-crossing is just low-calf but there is still plenty of water everywhere you might want to camp or bivy. Some folks are doing this car-to-car now from the White River TH, but you're looking at 27 miles and over 9,000 feet, so that's a big day. Plus, it is so nice up there, throw in a few extra pounds for sleeping out and enjoy! Bug protection a must. Good bivies at 6,500 just below the crossover col on Clark's southeast ridge and at 7,600 on the ridge that connects Clark to Luahna. Snow ramp on Clark's southeast slopes is very helpful for climbing (might want traction early in the day; micro's are fine) and glissading. The crux of this baby is easily the down-climb (and return) from the notch at 8,300 feet on Clark's south ridge. Stay climber's left on the way down to avoid as much loose crap as possible. Look back often and make a good GPS track for the return as it is the kind of area that is very easy to get off-route on. Traverse around Point 7970 is easy-peasy, as is getting up to the final slopes of Luahna on a clear use-trail. Locate the final gully with care -- it's only about 10 feet wide -- as any other way will get you into crumbly Class 4 and 5 dead-ends. Stephenson and Bongo refer to it beginning above a "south-trending rock rib," but it's more like a decapitated gendarme, just a real obvious rock cliff face. The gully begins immediately above and slightly left of that. The summit register, placed in '93, is a treasure, with signatures from Fay Pullen, Stephenson, Bongiovanni, Klenke, Lemke, etc. Like all Bulgers, this peak is seeing a lot more action these days.
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