Ascent of Sloan Peak on 2021-07-18

Climber: Jacob Whitbeck

Date:Sunday, July 18, 2021
Ascent Type:Successful Summit Attained
Peak:Sloan Peak
    Elevation:7835 ft / 2388 m

Ascent Trip Report

(see Tom Mullen report for another good report of this trip). 2nd attempt of Sloan.. this time Bedal creek approach to avoid stream crossings. Google does not provide good route to the trailhead. Turn off from Mountain Loop Hwy is here: 48.08566, -121.38868. It might be easier to use these coordinates than the trailhead name since this road dead ends at the trailhead. Road has steep portions with big dips - AWD/4WD highly recommended. Road is also overgrown and has some large branches sticking out - pay attention to avoid deep scratches on your car. Trail starts okay but turns into overgrown mess with blowdowns. Expect moving over and under trees. Eventually the trail ends and you will start ascending. There are pink flags marking the path - if you follow these you will avoid a majority of the bushwhacking. Most of the legitimate bushwhacking starts 3/4 up. If you lose the pink flags on the ascent - try to steer to climbers left. After bushwhack there is a short boulder field that is straight forward and marked with cairns. You will then do some side hilling on an overgrown angled trail (worst part of the trip in my opinion) to reach the saddle. After the saddle you will cross some snow fields while slightly ascending towards the glacier. If camping, there are some sites on the ridge before the glacier 48.05120, -121.33550 . Glacier is low-angle but large open crevasses. Relatively straight forward path on the lower portion - near the top there are two paths - above and below a large crevasse. We took the route above heading to the rock wall - this was very easy but has rockfall concerns from above. The other route we heard has a very sketchy snow bridge so as time goes on staying high will be the better option. After the glacier you can store your crampons, axe, etc. There's a straight forward, but exposed, goat trail to follow. You'll reach a gully that has some loose scree but good holds along the edges. Minor route finding all the way to the summit while scrambling with great holds. There is some exposure but with the holds you don't feel unsafe. A couple tricky moves to gain the summit. There's room for 6-7 people on the summit comfortably. Be careful descending the gully due to rock fall hazard. Straight forward descent following the same path.
Summary Total Data
    Route Conditions:
Unmaintained Trail, Bushwhack, Snow on Ground, Scramble, Exposed Scramble, Snow Climb, Glacier Climb
    Gear Used:
Ice Axe, Crampons, Rope, Ski Poles, Tent Camp
Ascent Statistics
    Route:Bedal Creek / Corkscrew
Descent Statistics
GPS Data for Ascent/Trip

 GPS Waypoints - Hover or click to see name and lat/long
Peaks:  climbed and  unclimbed by Jacob Whitbeck
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Note: GPS Tracks may not be accurate, and may not show the best route. Do not follow this route blindly. Conditions change frequently. Use of a GPS unit in the outdoors, even with a pre-loaded track, is no substitute for experience and good judgment. accepts NO responsibility or liability from use of this data.

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