Ascent of Monte Rosa on 2021-07-10

Climber: Bill Hughes

Date:Saturday, July 10, 2021
Ascent Type:Successful Summit Attained
    Motorized Transport to Trailhead:Train
Peak:Monte Rosa
    Elevation:15203 ft / 4633 m

Ascent Trip Report

Day 1: Train from Zermatt to Rotenboden then 9 km hike to Monte Rosa Hut, initially along path then across Gorner Glacier (we didn't need crampons or to rope up, but others were), then rock/boulder traverse round to hut. Took us 4 hours with one short stop.

Day 2: Breakfast 02:00. There were about 25 climbers heading up and we were the last to leave at about 03:00. Initial 1.5 km over rock, then about 3 km over the glacier before steep climb up icy slope to the ridge at Sattel. Ridge divided into three rocky sections, with the first two longer and the third harder. Final pitch up chimney to summit aided by fixed rope. Abseiled down to glacier in five(?) abseils using fixed rods, starting about 50m east of summit. Joined with another pair to cross glacier as a rope of 4. Glacier in friendly condition and no difficulty navigating past the crevasses back down to Satteltole (about 9 hours from start).
Summary Total Data
    Route Conditions:
Unmaintained Trail, Snow on Ground, Exposed Scramble, Snow Climb, Glacier Climb
    Gear Used:
Ice Axe, Crampons, Rope, Headlamp, Ski Poles, Guide, Hut Camp
    Nights Spent:1 nights away from roads
    Weather:Breezy, Clear
Ascent Statistics
    Route:Swiss Normal Route
    Start Trailhead:Rotenboden railway station  
Descent Statistics

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