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Ascent of Mount Cruiser on 2021-05-29

Climber: Roger Soles

Date:Saturday, May 29, 2021
Ascent Type:Successful Summit Attained
Peak:Mount Cruiser
    Location:USA-Washington
    Elevation:6104 ft / 1860 m

Ascent Trip Report



Started from Staircase at 5:45 am.

Approach:
Uneventful hike up to the lakes. Snow starts around 3000-3500 feet and was easy to travel and navigate to Flapjack. From Flapjacks traveled over snow to the upper meadows/basins below Gladys Divide. Transitioned to crampons to head up Needle Pass which was firm in the morning.

Beta:
Scrambling up Beta was straightforward. There is a lot of snow on the route all the way to cruiser. the first gull down the other side of Beta was full with snow so we scrambled up and over the skiers left side ridge (3rd). The second long gully down to the base of Cruiser was also fat with snow which was very loose and wet. We opted to scramble skiers right down the side and then climb over some trees to get on the snow slope which we traversed to the skiers left moat. Once in the moat, several 4th class downclimbs/traverses above some serious moat holes led us to the base of the climb.

Cruiser:
I led up to the cannonhole which was uneventful until the hole itself. It is very wet right now and there is a ton of snow blocking the exit. This seems like it is normally pretty mellow exit but clearing out snow and making an exit hole provided some spice. This should clear up soon. The ledge is covered with snow. Raph led the summit pitch which was uneventful.

Descent:
Replaced lots of tat that was worn or chewed through. 1 rappel to the ledge from bolts on ridge, and then 1 rappel down to 4th class terrain above the start (we didn't use the 3rd rappel). Left rock shoes on until back up the 4th class climbing in the moat which was a lot easier on the way back up Beta than it was coming down. Met back up with some new friends at Needle Pass who were climbing the Needle (looks cool... pointy!) and then plunged down Needle Pass and headed out.

The extra snowpack made for a little more Alpine of an adventure than I was expecting which combined with great weather made for an awesome day out!

13.5 hr C2C w/ Raphael Hyde

Splits:

3:15 - Lakes
4:30 - Gladys Divide basin
5:30 - Needle Pass
7:00 - Base of climb
8:00 - Summit
9:50 - Needle Pass
13:30 - Cars


Summary Total Data
    Route Conditions:
Maintained Trail, Unmaintained Trail, Snow on Ground, Scramble, Exposed Scramble, Rock Climb, Snow Climb
    Gear Used:
Ice Axe, Crampons, Rope, Ski Poles
Ascent Statistics
    Route:Flapjack Lakes/South Corner
Descent Statistics



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