Ascent of Mount Olympus on 2021-05-22

Climber: Ryan Stoddard

Date:Saturday, May 22, 2021
Ascent Type:Successful Summit Attained
Peak:Mount Olympus
    Elevation:7969 ft / 2428 m

Ascent Trip Report

With Rebecca, Lance, Damon. We left shortly after midnight and decided we would power hike the trail to save energy then could run out if we felt good. Unfortunately Damon had some nausea he couldn’t shake and at the ranger station he decided to bail and we parted ways :,( the reduced party continued, finally the sun came up then we hit patchy snow above elk lake which really slowed us down. But in not too much longer we were putting on crampons to descend from the moraine then roped up as we got into the sun on the blue glacier.

We followed some old ski tracks that stopped at the top of snow dome then continued on - no evidence of humans to the summit area in recent weeks. We are delighted to see the “autobahn” route is in, an early season variation that just goes str8 from snow dome over the schrund and to the base of the N face scramble pitch. Was so so fun to take the autobahn str8 up!!

We get to the base of the rock portion and I rack up. It seems the 5th class portion is buried under snow (we get to skip) but it also seems that the 4th class scramble to the top is covered in ice. I take a long time to lead this pitch, I carefully use axe to pull rotten ice off of the foot holds and find a good way up. It feels very alpine leading this mixed portion in trail runners, and I am very happy to have brought cams to keep it safe. At the belay anchor I take a moment to warm up my toes then belay up Lance and Rebecca and we go to tag the summit then rap back down to snow.

We carefully descend autobahn past the schrund then fast plunge stepping all the way down to the base of the moraine. Stop at the “glacier meadows aid station” then we pick the pace up a bit after the snow patches and do some jogging and shuffling. It is super awesome to see the rainforest and big trees in the light this time.

Make it back to cars for 21 hrs car2car then have a “mini rave” listening to music on my phone, drinking beers, and eating Patagonia provisions (nasty). Wild day, strong team, thanks so much everyone.
Summary Total Data
GPS Data for Ascent/Trip

 GPS Waypoints - Hover or click to see name and lat/long
Peaks:  climbed and  unclimbed by Ryan Stoddard
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Note: GPS Tracks may not be accurate, and may not show the best route. Do not follow this route blindly. Conditions change frequently. Use of a GPS unit in the outdoors, even with a pre-loaded track, is no substitute for experience and good judgment. accepts NO responsibility or liability from use of this data.

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