Ascent of Mount Logan on 2021-03-13

Climber: Ryan Stoddard

Date:Saturday, March 13, 2021
Ascent Type:Successful Summit Attained
Peak:Mount Logan
    Elevation:9087 ft / 2769 m

Ascent Trip Report


I try not to play favorites - but I can't deny Mt. Logan is one of my favorite mountains. It is a 9000er in the epicenter of the North Cascade range, and has many elements of a true cascade experience - long approach, glacier travel, class 4 rock. In July 2018 I climbed Logan with Cara and Philip, which is an experience I will never forget.

On that trip we speculated if a Logan winter ascent would be feasible. It remained in my mind as a distant dream until last year I noticed that the Douglas glacier route was actually a feasible winter route (the FWA was 1981 by Fremont route -1981 was a very low snow year and the Fremont route is not a good route for standard winter). Eric G is interested in climbing winter Bulgers and was down to connect for it.

Friday I worked until 1pm then drove to Colonial creek CG and we started hiking down the trail ~4pm. At 4.7mi we stashed trail runners and tried to skin, but then snow was patchy and then there were a rediculous amount of blowdowns and our pace slowed from 2+ mph to <0.5mph. After tricouni camp the trail starts to climb and the blowdowns got better and we could skin continuously. The sun set and it was new moon - stars all around above the shadows of Giants. Set up bivy at Fisher creek trail x Logan creek. 8 hrs, in bed ~12:30am.

Saturday we were moving shortly after 4am. Lost the trail and sidehilled for a bit, then eventually made it up to Douglas glacier turn off. No bushwhacking today - all the alder is under snow. Stoke was off the charts when we saw the snowy wonderland above.

As we skinned toward the Douglas we noticed the headwall was just a short steep snow climb and would save considerable time, we just skinned straight there and booted direct up! Then roped up and climbed up towards the swale. Views of N cascades in winter glory all around wow wow wow <3.

Ditched the skis at the bottom of the swale, then booted steeply up. A couple hundred feet more of booting brought us the the false summit. When we were here in summer there was a ledge around the right of the false summit, but it was smoothed over today. We carefully downclimbed to the col between false and true summit - the final summit climb is steep and exciting looking!

We brought pro since we knew the 4th class climb to the true summit would be sketchy with unconsolidated snow and ice covering the rocks. Eric leads while I belay and take in the views of Boston glacier and surroundings from the belay notch :) Then Eric belays me up and we share summit success! I give myself screeming barfies so the hands no longer feel numb and it feels like a pure winter climb despite the good March weather.

We belay the downclimb then descend to skis - now the fun part! Descend almost 5k' down to the Fisher creek valley! The top is crusty and we are a bit worried it wont be good but then things soften up to pow and its amazing!! I am in awe, at one point I just have to stop for a minute to take it all in and savor the magic moment <3 We descend to the valley, skin to camp - 15.75 hrs

Sunday wake up, skin/ski/hike out - 7.5 hrs

Trip stats should be 42mi - my watch died on Sunday.

Stoke is high!
Summary Total Data
GPS Data for Ascent/Trip

 GPS Waypoints - Hover or click to see name and lat/long
Peaks:  climbed and  unclimbed by Ryan Stoddard
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Note: GPS Tracks may not be accurate, and may not show the best route. Do not follow this route blindly. Conditions change frequently. Use of a GPS unit in the outdoors, even with a pre-loaded track, is no substitute for experience and good judgment. accepts NO responsibility or liability from use of this data.

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