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Ascent of South Suicide Peak on 2020-11-03

Climber: Bryan Kraai

Date:Tuesday, November 3, 2020
Ascent Type:Unsuccessful - Turned Back
    Motorized Transport to Trailhead:Car
Peak:South Suicide Peak
    Location:USA-Alaska
    Elevation:4330 ft / 1319 m

Ascent Trip Report

Kaleb and I started out before sunrise at the Rabbit Creek trailhead. We made good time getting to Rabbit Lake on account of the nice packed trail. We used micro spikes and poles for this section. From Rabbit we dropped down to McHugh Creek and gave up about 200' to get down there. We progressed up the ridge alternating between wind scoured snow, exposed scrub growth and shin need snow. We made the ridge and started the traverse. Beta said that the ridge was easy traveling, it was anything but easy. We donned our ice axes for this tricky section. One wrong move meant a quick trip bouncing down the steep slope down. We got to a few spots where we had to change course until we got to a point where continuing on may have meant dropping down at least another 1,000' which we didn't relish the idea. At this point we opted to retreat and try again during the summer.
On our descent we both ended up slipping and having to self arrest. At this point we opted for crampons for the rest of the way down. We crossed over exposed rocks, scrub growth, loose sugar snow and breakable crust on the way down. I wasn't fond of these varied conditions as a few times I almost stumbled. Finally we made it to the flats and I quickly packed up my crampons. It was at this point that I realized I didn't have my poles, they were way up on the ridge. I must not have packed them up when I got my ice axe out. This oversight would cost me dearly on the trip out as I stumbled a lot through more varied snow conditions. I was upset with myself for forgetting to pack them up when I got my axe, something I've not done in my years of hiking. To add insult to injury, most of my liquids were frozen solid due to the sub-zero temps we experienced on the trip.
This trip was supposed to ring in my 200,000' goal for the year. Well I think I got it, but in a very anti-climactic way.
Next summer I'll attempt both suicide peaks from the Falls Creek trail along Turnagain Arm.
Summary Total Data
    Total Elevation Gain:2827 ft / 860 m
    Total Elevation Loss:400 ft / 120 m
    Route Conditions:
Open Country, Snow on Ground, Snow Climb
    Gear Used:
Ice Axe, Crampons, Ski Poles
    Weather:Cold, Calm, Clear
Sunny but cold!!
Ascent Statistics
    Gain on way in:2627 ft / 800 m
        Gain Breakdown:Net: 2427 ft / 739 m; Extra: 200 ft / 60m
    Loss on way in:200 ft / 60 m
    Start Trailhead:1903 ft / 580 m
Descent Statistics
    Loss on way out:200 ft / 60 m
    Gain on way out:200 ft / 60 m
GPS Data for Ascent/Trip


 GPS Waypoints - Hover or click to see name and lat/long
Peaks:  climbed and  unclimbed by Bryan Kraai
Click Here for a Full Screen Map
Note: GPS Tracks may not be accurate, and may not show the best route. Do not follow this route blindly. Conditions change frequently. Use of a GPS unit in the outdoors, even with a pre-loaded track, is no substitute for experience and good judgment. Peakbagger.com accepts NO responsibility or liability from use of this data.

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