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Ascent of Mount Triumph on 2020-09-06

Climber: Andrew Yi

Others in Party:Ryan Cairnes
Date:Sunday, September 6, 2020
Ascent Type:Unsuccessful - Turned Back
Peak:Mount Triumph
    Location:USA-Washington
    Elevation:6800 ft / 2072 m

Ascent Trip Report

Sat, 9/5: approach from Thornton lakes trailhead to our campsite at the col was mostly straight forward. Hike to the first lake, cross the outlet stream of the lake, and find the trail on the west side of the lake. Trail is a bit brushy and overgrown but not bad. Upon reaching the second lake, take the trail climbers right of the trail, NOT left and try to find a faint climbers trail through the talus and Heather on the right side of the second lake. This is at approximately 4,760 ft. This will lead to a decent climbers trail up the steep gully to the col. Either camp at the col or at a rock outcrop approximately 200 ft down on the other side of the col.

Sun, 9/6: left camp and traversed over snow and slabs to the approach gully to the top. Look for a left slanting grassy gully. The gully is loose 4th/low 5th with sparse pro. Belay at the top of the gully and scramble some more 4th class until you get a flat ledge. Belay from there and head up a low 5th gully, passing the first rap station until you nearly run out the rope to a higher rap station. Belay from there. Its mostly 4th class from there, with a mix of walking and some steeper terrain. Simul climb until you reach the base of the first tall gendarme. Belay from the base of the gendarme, trending slightly climbers right. The gendarme is about 5.4/5.5, fun climbing on flakes and jugs. At the top of this gendarme, is the knifes edge traverse. We stopped here, approximately 300 to 350 ft short of the summit. Time was an issue. We had 2 ropes teams with a 50m and 60m rope respectively . One of the climbers on the 50m was really struggling with the climbing and exposure. There was also a party ahead of us that was moving slow. We considered maybe having 2 people descend while the other 2 continued on, but one team wouldn't be able to rap the route with a 50m rope so we decided to bail as a team.

We hit our designated turn around time and decided to call it, not wanting to potentially spend a night on the mountain. That turned out to be the right call as the team ahead of us on the route didn't get back to the col until approximately midnight/1 am!

The descent is relatively straight forward. The rap stations are clear and there is easy downclimbing between the rap stations. Definitely bring a 60m or 70m rope.

Day 3 was a relatively uneventful hike out. I definitely want to go back and tag the summit soon. Be comfortably moving efficiently and moving through scrambling and low 5th terrain on this. Expect time to be an issue. It's long, fairly loose in spots and exposed. People with less experience in mountain terrain will find it challenging. As a collective team, we were moving too slowly and had to make the decision to bail. I'll definitely be back soon.

The views and position of the climb are 5 star and cannot be beat. I can't wait to go back.



Summary Total Data
    Route Conditions:
Maintained Trail, Unmaintained Trail, Bushwhack, Scramble, Exposed Scramble, Rock Climb, Snow Climb, Glacier Climb
    Gear Used:
Ice Axe, Crampons, Rope, Headlamp, Ski Poles, Bivouac



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