Ascent of Middle Teton on 2020-08-29

Climber: Josh Super

Others in Party:Sam Pack
Date:Saturday, August 29, 2020
Ascent Type:Successful Summit Attained
Peak:Middle Teton
    Elevation:12804 ft / 3902 m

Ascent Trip Report

For the 3rd time, I drove down to Lupine Meadows Trailhead and slept in the car overnight. This time I met up with Sam and Joe for an attempt on the Middle Teton. Got about 5 hours of sleep and we left the trailhead just before 5. Had a pretty decent pace going. I was worried about this hike dragging out since I had just been on it two weeks ago, but it was really fast by the time we rounded the corner into the canyon. Made it to the split for the routes to the two saddles. We had heard going right up to the huge dike in the middle of Middle teton, and that route was okay, but it seems the more well-treaded route is going left near the noticeable snowfield and ensuing boulderfield (Which is the way I descended). It seemed to take a long time to get to the lower saddle between South and Middle. At some point i looked up and could clearly see the SW Couloir route, and the rock looked fun so I just went straight up that way and told Sam and Joe I'd meet them up there. Well it was definitely some solid class 4 climbing to get up there on these rocks, but luckily it was solid rock, so all good fun. Once up there I continued partway up the SW Couloir route, opting for higher class climbing on solid rock instead of the loose stuff. It took Sam and Joe considerable time to catch up. From there, it was just avoiding all the loose stuff as much as possible and sticking to the good rock. I had accidentally left my helmet in the car so I had to be extra careful. But no incidents at all, this stuff is a breeze compared to the beartooths.

Made it to the summit at 10:08AM. Ended up doing Grand Teton faster two weeks ago. It was Sam's highest mountain to date and he was reeling from the exposure. Fun summit, was watching some ice climbers heading up from the NW. After getting our fruit snack on and enjoying the views, I headed back down quickly towards the saddle and waited for the other 2 to see if they were interested in a south teton venture. They were not.
Summary Total Data
    Total Elevation Gain:6072 ft / 1850 m
    Grade/Class:Class 3
    Quality:8 (on a subjective 1-10 scale)
    Route Conditions:
Maintained Trail, Unmaintained Trail, Snow on Ground, Scramble
Ascent Statistics
    Gain on way in:6072 ft / 1850 m
    Start Trailhead:6732 ft / 2051 m
    Time:5 Hours 15 Minutes
Descent Statistics

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