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Ascent of Magpie Peak on 2020-08-28

Climber: Kevin Downie

Others in Party:Matt Green
Wayne Todd
Date:Friday, August 28, 2020
Ascent Type:Successful Summit Attained
Peak:Magpie Peak
    Location:USA-Alaska
    Elevation:5812 ft / 1771 m

Ascent Trip Report

Not going to say too much, since William Finley's report at https://www.akmountain.com/2019/06/29/magpie-southeast-gully/ describes the route perfectly. This was a late season ascent and true to Billy's words, the Southeast Gully was a "bowling alley of loose rock". I will say that crossing the moat and climbing up into the gulley required a bit of 5th class scrambling. On the way down we rappelled the last 75' and over the moat. Once in the gulley, climbing was rather easy except with a party of 3 had to be really careful with rock fall. Even the short chimney sections didn't seem to bad, (we did rappel off the top pitch). I had the most shaky knees on the final summit ridge because of rather serious exposure and it seems nothing on the mountain is attached. Over all a good climb. We took our time for a total 9 1/2 hours. Carried ice axe and crampons but they were not used.
Summary Total Data
    Route Conditions:
Maintained Trail, Unmaintained Trail, Exposed Scramble, Rock Climb
    Gear Used:
Ski Poles
    Weather:Pleasant, Calm, Partly Cloudy
Some low clouds begging of climb, but cleared up into a nice day.



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