Ascent of Mount Thomson on 2020-08-23

Climber: Andrew Yi

Date:Sunday, August 23, 2020
Ascent Type:Successful Summit Attained
Peak:Mount Thomson
    Elevation:6554 ft / 1997 m

Ascent Trip Report

Sat, 08/22: late start and hiked into bumblebee Basin vis the old commonwealth trail shortcut and then the pct. A bit of a long but very easy approach, as the pct is so cruiser and (annoyingly) low angle. Very scenic, however, once you break out of the trees. Bumblebee Basin camp is very pleasant with a nice stream near our campsite.

Sun, 08/23: hiked NW from camp up the talus field to the west Ridge notch, where we roped up after scrambling the class 4 "dogs tooth" gendarme.

P1: a short step left via a slabby foot ledge and then up a featured chimney to a big bushy tree. Belay from there. 5.6.

P2: straight up the open book crack, climbers right up the low angle Slab, then sharp climbers left to an exposed foot ledge and up a short cruxy bulge. Belay from a small ledge large enough to accommodate 3 people. 5.6

P3: a short step up to the base of the great Slab. 5.4.

P4: 4th class Slab traverse to a notch. Simul climb.

P5: step left up and up a short chimney, then right and up a bulging crack. Climbers right above the crack, and then up a short 20 ft unprotected low 5th step. Then hike to a large Boulder on the false summit. Belay from the chockstone. 5.6

Next walk down a chossy trail from the false summit to a notch between the false and true summits. Shorten up your rope using kiwi coils and simul walk down to the notch. Step left and up a short 5.0 chimney to the true summit.

Descend the east ridge. 2 short raps and descend the climbers trail down the Ridge until a notch, where you turn to skiers right and descent the loose scree/talus field back to the Basin. There is a loose climbers trail in the scree field.

Gear notes: half rack of nuts, cams from 0.3 to 3. Skip the 3 and maybe bring a 0.2 instead. Bring lots of double length slings as rope drag can be an issue.
Summary Total Data
    Route Conditions:
Maintained Trail, Scramble, Exposed Scramble, Rock Climb
    Gear Used:
Rope, Headlamp, Ski Poles, Tent Camp
Ascent Statistics
    Route:West Ridge
Descent Statistics

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