Ascent of West Peak on 2020-07-05

Climber: Dan Lauren

Date:Sunday, July 5, 2020
Ascent Type:Successful Summit Attained
Peak:West Peak
    Elevation:7365 ft / 2244 m

Ascent Trip Report

This summit has some of the most sustained exposed scrambling of any peak I've done. The rock is actually pretty solid, there is of course loose shale and gravel everywhere, and a few loose flakes, so you must check each hold or step, but there are multiple solid handholds and footholds. But extreme exposure. We srambled the whole route in, and did one 15 meter rappel out. The two worst parts are the exit from the moat, about 20' of moving along the face with 4" steps and not much to hang on to, and the final chimney to the summit, another 20' barely ledge system to access the chimney, and then then pretty thin handholds up the chimney.

Straightforward to access the U shaped notch, then you get a look at the impressive ridge. After tapping the triple divide point, we looked at the first problem, decided to do the moat bypass, with the aforementioned traverse to the obvious ramp. Then just careful scrambling over multiple humps until the final notch to the main summit. Dropped down 15' to the sketchy ledge and scrambled the chimney. Rappelled this chimney on the way out, 30M rope, put in another sling on the anchor. Left a register. 6 hours from Siberian Camp. Allow more time if intending to rope up.

Pictures and more detail at:
Summary Total Data
    Total Elevation Gain:3162 ft / 963 m
Ascent Statistics
    Gain on way in:3162 ft / 963 m
    Distance:9.6 mi / 15.4 km
    Start Trailhead:4203 ft / 1281 m
Descent Statistics
GPS Data for Ascent/Trip

 GPS Waypoints - Hover or click to see name and lat/long
Peaks:  climbed and  unclimbed by Dan Lauren
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Note: GPS Tracks may not be accurate, and may not show the best route. Do not follow this route blindly. Conditions change frequently. Use of a GPS unit in the outdoors, even with a pre-loaded track, is no substitute for experience and good judgment. accepts NO responsibility or liability from use of this data.

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