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Ascent of Prusik Peak on 2020-06-13

Climber: Andrew Yi

Others in Party:Tobin Akehurst
----Only Party on Mountain
Date:Saturday, June 13, 2020
Ascent Type:Successful Summit Attained
Peak:Prusik Peak
    Location:USA-Washington
    Elevation:8000 ft / 2438 m

Ascent Trip Report

6/13: left the snow lakes TH at 1030 am and reached our camp at snow lakes about 4 hours later. The dam crossing to get to the snow lakes campsites was rushing with shin deep water so I opted to take my boots off and cross barefoot.

6/14: approach is mostly snow free from camp to Lake Viviane. The majority of the core is still snow covered. We opted for a short cut, ascending a bare rock buttress of easy Slab hiking to get to prusik pass. Once at the tie in rock at the base of the west Ridge, the winds were horrendous and it was very cold. We put on every layer we had and opted to climb with gloves on. We ended up climbing the entire route with gloved hands.

P1: 5.easy - scramble up from the tie in rock to a short double crack system. Approximately 15 ft higher, traverse to the left to the first belay.

P2 - 5.5 - go up easy 5th terrain and traverse to the left to a narrow foot ledge. Make an exposed air step to the left and then up a short gully to the belay.

P3 - 5.7 - scramble up, and then surmount a short steep step to the base of the friction Slab. Above the Slab, climb over the Ridge crest where you get to an easy but exposed traverse to the belay.

P4 - scramble unroped to the base of a short jam crack. Ascend the jam crack, and then you will see a finger crack corner directly above to a large ledge. Once on the ledge, we opted to climb the lieback flake to the right and ascend the final short squeeze chimney to the summit.

Descend - make 4 abseils. Note that the third abseil will not reach the next rappel station with a 60m rope. About 15 ft of downclimbing will be required.

Gear: we brought a set of standard wires from 1 to 6 and offset wires from 7 to 11. Single set of cams from BD c4 0.3 to 2. Skip the 0.3 and 0.4, only 0.5 to 2 were used. There is ample opportunity to sling horns and tunnels.

I'd say that the Slab on pitch 3 is not the crux, contrary to what the internet says. The Slab was pretty easy climbing and it is short. Pitch 4 was definitely harder. We opted for the variation involving the corner crack, followed by the lieback flake, and finally the squeeze chimney to the summit.

Overall, a super fun climb in very cold and windy "alpine" like conditions with good friends! We couldn't believe our luck in that we were the only party on the mountain, on what is perhaps the most popular alpine rock route in the state.
Summary Total Data
    Route Conditions:
Maintained Trail, Snow on Ground, Scramble, Rock Climb
    Gear Used:
Ice Axe, Crampons, Rope, Headlamp, Ski Poles, Tent Camp
Ascent Statistics
    Route:West Ridge
Descent Statistics



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