Ascent of Mount Abbot on 2019-08-11

Climber: Sandy Lara

Others in Party:Phil Bates
Corrine Livingston
Lisa Miyake
Kelly Randell
Date:Sunday, August 11, 2019
Ascent Type:Successful Summit Attained
Peak:Mount Abbot
    Elevation:13704 ft / 4176 m

Ascent Trip Report

Private trip, backpacked to Mills Lake, still snow with sun cups even between Ruby and Mills Lakes, but largely avoidable in this section. No mosquitoes (or very, very few) compared to Hilton Lakes area a couple of days earlier. Also much cooler, getting down to freezing at night. Climbed up from camp on NW side of Mills Lake staying west of lake and well above the center of the drainage. Some of it looks like talus but is actually easily passable. Climbed several hundred feet on firm sun cups before putting crampons on when the angle got steeper. Higher up, we found a "trough" through the sun cups/snowfield from previous climbers and followed that up. Others have reported difficulty in traversing from snow to rock, but we did not have a problem. Climbed high on rock too quickly and had to get on route, then followed it fairly easily to the summit. The "knife edge traverse" is at least as wide as a sidewalk and not difficult at all (might be different in a snowstorm or heavy winds). Views were spectacular. Descent was done carefully. Got back to camp, packed up, and backpacked out. Great trip!
Summary Total Data
    Total Elevation Gain:3500 ft / 1066 m
    Route Conditions:
Maintained Trail, Unmaintained Trail, Open Country, Snow on Ground, Scramble, Exposed Scramble, Snow Climb
    Gear Used:
Ice Axe, Crampons, Ski Poles, Tent Camp
Ascent Statistics
    Gain on way in:3500 ft / 1066 m
    Distance:12 mi / 19.3 km
    Start Trailhead:10204 ft / 3110 m
Descent Statistics

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