Ascent of Gannett Peak on 2019-08-02

Climber: Harvest Mondello

Other People:Solo Ascent
Date:Friday, August 2, 2019
Ascent Type:Successful Summit Attained
Peak:Gannett Peak
    Elevation:13804 ft / 4207 m

Ascent Trip Report

Solo ascent of Gannett Peak via Gooseneck Route (AG I / 3rd / Dinwoody and Gooseneck Glaciers to 45*). Note that late season it's a 4th class rock band to bypass the shrund. 9,904 cumulative elevation gain (4,504 net) 40 miles round trip.

Approach 8/2/19: Pole Creek Trailhead to Titcomb Basin (15 miles, 2,750 cumulative elevation. 8 hours).

The approach in the Bridger Wilderness in the Northern Wind River Range is extremely scenic. It starts with a forest and then beautiful lakes. Next you have alpine lakes and flowery meadows.

I bivied north of North Titcomb lake (10,750) with sounds of the river. Lighting storm in the distance fron 2 to 4 PM. That night it rained. Windy. Minimal mosquitoes and all little slow early season ones.

Climb: 5,400 elevation, miles round trip, 10 hours camp to camp 5 1/2 up, 4 1/2 back). An early start for lighting suggested.

The rain and wind from the night before froze a layer of ice on the snow field for the last 1,000 feet to gain Bonnie Pass. This ice made for a challenging climb and was the crux of the day. There's good bivy spots and flowing water at the top of Bonnie Pass (12,800) but I was not acclimatized for such a high camp. This would cut summit day in half. 2 hours from my camp but 1 1/2 from bivy spots at the base of the pass.

From Bonnie Pass cross the entire Dinwoody Glacier. Cross a tallus band and skirt the Gooseneck Glacier. There's a good bivy spot at the end of the tallus at 11,800 with waterfalls above. One small bergshrund to gain the summit ridge. A class 4 rock band to the climbers left can be used later in the season when the shrund goes out in mid to late August. A 30m could be used to rap this or down climb. There's a few class 3 moves to the summit.

Out: 7 hours.

An early start out (hiking at dawn) got me back in town for a 1 pm lunch.

Gear: Ice axe, crampons & helmet. Bivy gear & water filtration recommended. Late season you may want a 30 meter rope or cord to rap the shrund for a 15 meter rappel. Many parties chose to rope up for the glacier so consider glacier travel & rescue gear carefully as there are a few crevasses
Summary Total Data
    Total Elevation Gain:5400 ft / 1644 m
    Total Elevation Loss:9904 ft / 3017 m
    Grade/Class:I / Class 3
    Quality:8 (on a subjective 1-10 scale)
    Route Conditions:
Glacier Climb
    Gear Used:
Ice Axe, Crampons, Headlamp, Ski Poles, Bivouac
Ascent Statistics
    Gain on way in:2700 ft / 822 m
    Loss on way in:2700 ft / 822 m
    Route:Gooseneck Route via Bonney Pass
    Start Trailhead:Pole Creek Trailhead  
Descent Statistics
    Loss on way out:7204 ft / 2195 m
        Loss Breakdown:Net: 4504 ft / 1373 m; Extra: 2700 ft / 822m
    Gain on way out:2700 ft / 822 m
    Route:Gooseneck Route via Bonney Pass
    End Trailhead:Pole Creek Trailhead  9300 ft / 2834 m

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