Ascent of Mount Wickersham on 2019-07-25

Climber: Nate Bannish

Date:Thursday, July 25, 2019
Ascent Type:Successful Summit Attained
Peak:Mount Wickersham
    Elevation:7415 ft / 2260 m

Ascent Trip Report

Mt. Wickersham Southeast gully/valley to south ridge

Class 2+ with glacier travel

25 Miles - 13h 25mins

Blog with photos

I'd been scheming about this peak for nearly a year - plotting on Google earth, reading through old Scree articles, and bugging Wayne Todd without mercy, yet I still didn't know quite what to expect. The obvious route seemed to be the southeast gully, but I could find little beta on it. No problem! Sometimes it's more excting to head into the unknown.

The forecast had taken a turn for the better, and so on 7/24 Wednesday night, I found myself sleeping in my Honda Civic in the Matanuska glacier parking lot, true hobo style.

After a 3am coffee, I made my way out onto the glacier, or at least, I tried to. Being pretty unfamiliar with the Matanuska, I attempted to get on the ice right away... Which turned out to be a bad idea. The ice is initially a maze of crevasses and seracs, where one wrong turn will put you into a total dead end that takes agonizingly long to reverse.

Heading left onto the moraine turned out to be a much better option, and one that my feet appreciated (walking lots of miles in crampons is brutal). Once on the moraine, I quickly found a trail that the glacier guides put in. This was easy travel for a mile or so until it eventually ran out, leaving me to fend for myself.

The moraine remained good travel for quite a while, sometimes turning crevasse-y but mostly staying flat. Eventually the ice on my right mellowed out, so I figured it was a good time to strap on the crampons and cross to the correct side of the glacier.
Crossing took a while. I never came to a true dead end, but I did backtrack around some wider crevasses, which was time consuming.

At last, I finally got off the glacier, where I managed to put my boot into some deep cement mud in the process. YUCK! It felt like it added 5 pounds. Some vigorous rinsing brought the boot back down to weight, and I vowed to tred more carefully around sickening silty mud.

After less than a mile along the edge of the glacier, I came to what I was waiting for - a stream flowing in from the right. I ditched my crampons and ice axe, and headed up.

Going up this stream proved to be very easy. The brush stayed well back and there were never any true shwacking moments. At a clearing, I realized I had arrived at a key feature I'd observed on Google.

Ahead, the terrain got steeper and narrower, turning into more of a gorge. To my right, a scree gully seemed to be the obvious route around. I went up this, and once at the top, I realized how well the Google Earth scouting paid off! I was on a wide grassy bench, and it was just a matter of easy sidehilling to get back to the (now mellower) stream flow.

I was now in a wide open valley with the stream trickling through its middle. Travel was still very easy, and I thoroughly enjoyed climbing to the peaceful sound of running water. After a while, I came to another scree field leading up to the south ridge of Wickersham.

As I clawed my way to the top of the scree, I realized just how mellow the rest of this route was. All the gendarmes ahead had easy scree bypasses, keeping travel squarely in Class 2. Only once or twice did I go hand over hand, and even then this was optional. It almost felt like cheating.

10:10 AM saw me at the summit, where I was suprised and amused to see I had 4 bars of cell service (ATT, you da best! haaaa) I sent a few photos, and decided I wanted to stand on the actual summit, which is a slightly precarious block of stacked choss. Once I tagged this, I figured it was time to head down and face the long walk back.

As I ran down the scree, I couldn't help but gleefully (and badly) sing my new favorite song -

"Now I'm scree,
SCREE fallin!
Scree fallin, now I'm scree fallin."
Click on photo for original larger-size version.
Wickersham hiding in a cloud behind the Matanuska glacier (2019-07-24). Photo by Nate Bannish.
Click here for larger-size photo.
Summary Total Data
    Route Conditions:
    Gear Used:
Ice Axe, Crampons
    Weather:Cool, Calm, Low Clouds
GPS Data for Ascent/Trip

 GPS Waypoints - Hover or click to see name and lat/long
Peaks:  climbed and  unclimbed by Nate Bannish
Click Here for a Full Screen Map
Note: GPS Tracks may not be accurate, and may not show the best route. Do not follow this route blindly. Conditions change frequently. Use of a GPS unit in the outdoors, even with a pre-loaded track, is no substitute for experience and good judgment. accepts NO responsibility or liability from use of this data.

Download this GPS track as a GPX file

Other Photos

Click on photo for original larger-size version.
Typical travel once you reach the south ridge - mellow class 2. (2019-07-25). Photo by Nate Bannish.
Click here for larger-size photo.
Click on photo for original larger-size version.
Fireweed on the grass ramps above "the crux" of the route - a scree bypass of the gorge to skier's/descenders right (2019-07-25). Photo by Nate Bannish.
Click here for larger-size photo.

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