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Ascent of Peril Peak on 2019-06-28

Climber: Brendan Lee

Date:Friday, June 28, 2019
Ascent Type:Successful Summit Attained
Peak:Peril Peak
    Location:USA-Alaska
    Elevation:7040 ft / 2145 m

Ascent Trip Report

With Laron, Dan, and Cody. Started at Eagle River Nature Center on Thursday evening. Hiked to Twin Falls, then up and over a pass south of Twinsicle Pass to reach Blue Eyed Lake. Food, a couple hours of sleep at Blue Eyed Lake then moving again at 4:30am on Friday. Up and over Inferno Pass, roped up and tromped onto the West Branch of the Eklutna Glacier. Dropped camp gear near a glacial pool & probed a campsite north of Mt Beelzebub -- trekked onwards for the South Ridge of Peril. Once we arrived west of Peril’s south ridge we intently studied the terrain, which was quite trivial at first sight. In late June, we spotted several snow tongues that connect to the south ridge sooner rather than later. Laron had tried a route like this before and suggested we connect with the ridge as high as possible. We spotted a steep and rotten couloir that appeared to curve and connect with the South Ridge around 6,000ft, further examination of this gully revealed the shape of C. Was this the fabled C couloir on Peril? With no better options we cached our glacier gear and started up the route with 60m of rope, a few cams, some slings and 3 stoppers. We never took our rope out of the bag on the way up or down, but I would highly suggest bringing the rope up the route as everyone has different thresholds.

The C couloir starts as steep choss but becomes exposed towards the top. We spotted the Peril Express exit of the C couloir which goes at 5.6 and opted to try and stay in the C couloir for as long as possible. Traversing onwards in the C couloir, a few 4th class moves over exposed terrain and a steep exit deposited us on the South Ridge. As soon as you exit the C couloir and turn climbers left, you will quickly be introduced to the type of climbing the south ridge entails. The south ridge consists of climbing around and over steep and exposed ridgeline and small gendarmes. The relief on both sides was quite impressive and also beautiful. Once the route connects with the summit block the rock quality decreases considerably and it’s a steep & exposed finish to the summit. As of June 2019 there was not a summit register. We reversed route, carefully down-climbing the terrain back to the glacier. Climbing down the C couloir with 4 in our party took extra time as rock fall is prolific and there isn’t a lot of space. Once back on the glacier Cody and Laron charged over to Mt Beelzebub and had success. Dan and I went back to camp for several hours of recharge then pressed on for a summit of Sunlight Mountain in the middle of the night.
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