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Ascent of North Palisade on 2019-06-15

Climber: Rick Abbott

Date:Saturday, June 15, 2019
Ascent Type:Unsuccessful - Turned Back
Peak:North Palisade
    Location:USA-California
    Elevation:14000 ft / 4267 m

Ascent Trip Report

Two day approach to 12,000' base camp on ridge above Palisade Glacier melt pond. Solid snow cover after crossing North Fork Big Pine Creek above Third Lake. Sam Mack Meadow full of snow. Snow relatively solid, so fairly easy going on crampons with little or now post-holing. 4:30AM start for summit Party of three, roped up just below bergschrund (three using only half of 70 meter rope). Nice snow bridge across bergschrund so no problem getting across. Crampons, ice axe and roped w/o belays-simul-climbed the couloir to the bottom of the U Notch-about 5 1/2 hours from base. Dropped crampons and ice axe at Notch and re-roped using full rope length for ascent of class five chimney. Top of chimney about 12. Much snow on ridge above chimney made it necessary to continue roped, protected and belayed. Moving to slow to make summit so turned around at about 14'000', about 1:30. Rappelled down the chimney-two raps off of solid webbing and rappel rings. Plunge stepped down the soft snow in the couloir. Down to base camp at about 5:30. Great day.
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