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Ascent of Stevens Peak on 2018-09-27

Climber: Redd Sea

Other People:Solo Ascent
Only Party on Mountain
Date:Thursday, September 27, 2018
Ascent Type:Successful Summit Attained
Peak:Stevens Peak
    Location:USA-California
    Elevation:10059 ft / 3065 m

Ascent Trip Report

Red Lake Peak:
Parked at Carson Pass. Took PCT for about a mile until there wasn't any more thick brush to whack through. Went West of the first false summit (the one that's like 700 feet lower). Made my way pretty much straight up from there to the south side of the Red Lake Peak summit. When I got there I went straight up the Southeast face of the wrong summit crag. I got most the way up when I realized it was far too difficult and exposed for me to finish today. I retreated back down and took the ridge south about 100 yards to the edge of a cliff face. The views here are worth it, especially when i realized I had been trying to climb the wrong crag.
The real summit is one of the furthest North. There is a use trail that you should follow around the East side of the summit. Finally, near the end of the summit block, there is a much easier spot to climb up. It's a narrow crevasse with good holds that let you up north of the actual summit. There is a way to cross over the summit block to the West side, drop straight down 5 feet, then head North 50 feet towards the summit. Climb the rocks then hop back towards the small true summit block. Register is stuck underneath the very highest rock. I returned to the use trail the same way I came.

Crater Lake Peak (Peak 9750):
There is a well-defined use trail from Red Lake Peak to Steven's Peak. Its hard to lose it. I broke off to summit Peak 9750 also on the way to Stevens, then returned to the trail on the other side. Peak 9750 is mostly open country but has some very interesting spires and cliffs along its ridge and looks most impressive from the summit of Steven's Peak.


Steven's Peak:
Steven's Peak turns into a field of talus but the use trail continues up it. There are one or two false summits here also, but nothing too difficult to overcome (or more easily just go around). The summit has a cairn tower marking it and a summit register. The most recent ascent on both peaks was 6 days earlier. I returned down the mountain using the use trail up around the back of Peak 9750, which appears to go all the way down to the lake on the PCT if followed correctly (not easy to follow in many parts). Many people seem to miss the use trail on the way up because it starts a minute North of the lake on the PCT. The mountain had a lot of animal holes everywhere so be careful with your ankles.
Summary Total Data
    Total Elevation Gain:650 ft / 198 m
    Total Elevation Loss:1635 ft / 497 m
    Grade/Class:class 2
    Route Conditions:
Maintained Trail, Unmaintained Trail, Open Country, Bushwhack, Scramble
    Gear Used:
Ski Poles
    Weather:Clear
Ascent Statistics
    Gain on way in:650 ft / 198 m
        Gain Breakdown:Net: 500 ft / 152 m; Extra: 150 ft / 45m
    Loss on way in:150 ft / 45 m
    Route:Use trail / Peak 9750
    Start Trailhead:red lake peak  9559 ft / 2913 m
Descent Statistics
    Loss on way out:1485 ft / 452 m
    Route:use trail / bushwack / PCT
    End Trailhead:Carson Pass PCT  8574 ft / 2613 m
Ascent Part of Trip: Red Lake Peak / Steven's

Complete Trip Sequence:
OrderPeak/PointDateGain
1Red Lake Peak2018-09-271489 ft / 454 m
2Crater Lake Peak (9750)2018-09-27150 ft / 46 m
3Stevens Peak2018-09-27650 ft / 198 m
Total Trip Gain: 2289 ft / 698 m    Total Trip Loss: 3314 ft / 1010 m



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