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Ascent of Da-ek Dow Go-et Mountain on 2018-08-25

Climber: Evan Battaglia

Date:Saturday, August 25, 2018
Ascent Type:Unsuccessful - Turned Back
Peak:Da-ek Dow Go-et Mountain
    Location:USA-California
    Elevation:8965 ft / 2732 m

Ascent Trip Report

Approach is probably 1.5 or 2 miles, not 1 as Summitpost states. "Less than 2 hours" is highly optimistic, given that the approach takes about 35 minutes. I left too late in the day -- 6pm, two hours before sunset -- having come from Patterson earlier in the day.

Rock is fairly sketchy, not surprising given the volcanic nature mentioned on Summitpost. The holds all seemed to hold, but their looks do not inspire confidence, and there are other loose pebbles and stuff around. I took quite a long time getting up to the fixed piton/bolt -- there is a sketchy move and then you continue up the exposed not-quite-a-chimney. The exposure (not hundreds of feet, but plenty enough to break your neck) combined with the conglomerate rock unnerved me. At the piton/bolt, which I didn't see at first, I went off route to the left, following a rough ledge ten feet or so up. It didn't look hard but soon I realized it didn't go anywhere and had to retreat those 10 feet. Unroped, this was very scary -- the drop-off just to my left was probably 60 feet, and again, the rock quality was less than inspiring. I took it very slow. Once I descended this 10 feet, I debated whether it would be safer to continue up or to downclimb. Fortunately I then discovered the bolt. I clipped in to calm my nerves and looked above. I could make out the "alcove" mentioned on Summitpost but could not make out any rap station. I saw a boulder up there that looked slingable though. I tried a couple moves up -- it seemed doable, but it was still pretty scary, similar to what I had past. At this point I was well past my turnaround time (it was about 7:10pm) so I rigged a rappel off the bolt (leaving a locker) and retreated. (Note: the bolt is pretty old/rusted, and may not be in full contact with rock. it may not be completely safe to rap off of. I semi-downclimbed for the top half of the rappel, but after that but my full weight on it... seemed fine.) Most of the approach was past nightfall, which I completed by the light of the full moon.
Summary Total Data
    Quality:7 (on a subjective 1-10 scale)
    Route Conditions:
Unmaintained Trail, Open Country, Scramble, Exposed Scramble
    Gear Used:
Rope



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