Ascent of Gannett Peak on 2018-08-22

Climber: Dave Covill

Others in Party:Denis Dean
Date:Wednesday, August 22, 2018
Ascent Type:Successful Summit Attained
Peak:Gannett Peak
    Elevation:13804 ft / 4207 m

Ascent Trip Report

Did it in 6 days, from Dubois TH up and over the Pass, with Day 3 a short one moving from the far end of Floyd Wilson Meadow up to the creek, to the moraine, and a mile up and into the boulder field to a spot directly under the Gooseneck Glacier cliffs. Found a nice gravel tent ring. There are a few; you have to seek them out. Attempting to summit from below the boulder field would require negotiating it in the dark, and maybe streams too if you were near Wilson Meadows. Not a good idea. We counted 10 stream crossings in this area, some small but some respectable.

The only issue we had was when we first crossed the big creek coming in from the NW a mile from first seeing Dinwoody Creek, and wandered a bit to regain the trail. USFS is in there now rebuilding that bridge, and it should be sweet next year.

Ascended up the left (W) side of the cliffs on talus then snow. Curved up rightwards to just under the Gooseneck on outcrop, then mellow snow. Made our way up to the bergschrund, which has the left-most 7-9' still intact. We humped it straight up along the edge of the rocks, but on snow. From there, mellow snow then summit ridge which is mostly rock now, some snow. A guide took his client from the W side (Pinedale approach) and caught us near the summit. They never once took their crampons off, walking across hundreds of yards of rock in them. We took them off and on twice each way.

Summit register is still in the canister. Lucky horseshoe is still next to it.

We did a bootaxe belay down to the rock edge, then used the webbing anchors twice to rap down past the slot. We had a 30M (100') rope. A 60M could have done it all in one swoop. We started up about 5AM, back to camp early afternoon. We had scouted a path through the rocks to the snow, so we knew where to go in the dark. Light out by 5:50AM.

Made it out to Wilson Meadow summit day afternoon. Made it over the Pass and down to the little creek crossing at 10,000' the next day, stopping to visit with the Stetters at their camp by the river crossing bridge. Made it out on Day 6 in a couple of hours, got a shower at the laundromat in Dubois for a few dollars, then a nice lunch at the burger place.

This was a big step up for Denis, and he did great on the steep snow. For those familiar with Rainier and Hood, it is steeper than Hood and more intimidating right below the Gooseneck Pinnacle. There are probably 20 total creek crossings counting small ones you step across or hop on a single rock across. Several had 2-3 logs you walk across 10-15' on. I didn't consider any of them life threatening, but slipping would put you and your pack in the drink for a while. Looking back 19 years to my first visit, it was much less intimidating to me now, but still a peak you must respect. We took some graupel coming down off the summit from clouds that came out of nowhere, with rain accompanying, but not bad. What a great place to visit.
Summary Total Data
Ascent Statistics
    Time:4 Days 
Descent Statistics
    Time:2 Days 

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