Ascent of Matterhorn on 2018-08-21

Climber: Jonathan Scislow

Others in Party:Marco (Societa Guide del Cervino)
Date:Tuesday, August 21, 2018
Ascent Type:Successful Summit Attained
    Motorized Transport to Trailhead:4x4 Vehicle
    Elevation:14692 ft / 4478 m

Ascent Trip Report

Day 1:
10:15am jeep ride, 11:10am start from Abruzzi hut, 2:30pm arrival at Carrel hut (3h 20min ascent)

Day 2:
4:30am start from Carrel hut, 9:30am Italian Summit, 9:45am Swiss Summit (5h 15min ascent)
2:30pm return to Carrel hut, 6:30pm return to Abruzzi hut, 8:50pm return to Cervinia (11hr 5min descent)
Total Day 2 = 16hr 20min

Total Climbing Time = 19hr 40min

Cervinia - 2050m = 6726ft
Abruzzi Hut - 2802m = 9193ft
Carrel Hut - 3835m = 12582ft
Italian Summit - 4476m = 14685ft
Swiss Summit - 4478m = 14692ft

The mountain started out with a growl. A day before I was supposed to climb, they closed the standard Hornli Ridge route due to severe rockfall.

I ended up doing the more technical Lion's Ridge route. Straight up one of the spines.

The mountain was roaring the entire way, but thankfully it let me climb up and give both of the lion's ears a little scratch. I topped out on both the Italian and Swiss summits of the Matterhorn.

16hr 20min day of the most intense climbing I've ever done. Even as I was walking back into town the mountain gave one final roar to remind me that it could have torn me to shreds. There was a sound like thunder and I turned back to see some major rockfall down the face of the mountain not too far from the Lion's Ridge where I had just been climbing.

The climbing itself was quite challenging for a very long period of time. There was a lot of Class 3 and Class 4 difficult and exposed scrambling for an extended period of time. Also many Class 5 sections most of which were aided by fixed ropes, but still quite difficult.

We were roped up the entire climb. In many sections, a fall likely would have meant death. During the more technical sections, it would have meant injury since we were tied in to anchor points and belaying. The guide was very exposed on difficult lead climbs with only my anchor as protection though. For the final sections, we put on crampons for the mixed climbing on snow and rock. Descent included many belays and difficult route finding I'm glad the guide had under control.

This climb was the most intense thing I have ever done. There were so many times where the consequences of any mistake could have been disastrous. We had only one very close call where the guide started down climbing and nearly fell before I had an anchor fixed. Thankfully he caught himself. If he hadn't, we'd both be dead.

The Italian summit was more interesting with the large metal cross near the top, but I made sure we also walked the precarious snowy ridge line to hit the true peak at the Swiss summit.

I was completely wrecked after the climb both physically and mentally, but still in one piece. The lion showed its teeth, but at least it didn't bite this time.

Summit number 40 feels good!

Guide Details:
Societa Guide del Cervino
Via Circonvallazione, 2
11021 Breuil Cervinia (AO)
Contact Person (Office) = Geraldine
Guide (Pollux) = Ivan Bianchi
Guide (Matterhorn) = Marco Tiraboschi
+39 0166 94 81 69
Cost Pollux = 500 Euro
Cost Matterhorn = 1200 Euro
Summary Total Data
    Total Elevation Gain:5499 ft / 1676 m
    Total Elevation Loss:7966 ft / 2428 m
    Grade/Class:AD+, III+
    Quality:9 (on a subjective 1-10 scale)
    Route Conditions:
Road Hike, Maintained Trail, Unmaintained Trail, Snow on Ground, Scramble, Exposed Scramble, Rock Climb, Snow Climb
    Gear Used:
Crampons, Rope, Headlamp, Guide, Hut Camp
    Nights Spent:1 nights away from roads
    Weather:Raining, Pleasant, Calm, Partly Cloudy
Good Conditions on Ascent, Rain/Snow/Hail on Descent
Ascent Statistics
    Gain on way in:5499 ft / 1676 m
    Route:Lion's Ridge
    Start Trailhead:Abruzzi Hut  9193 ft / 2802 m
    Time:2 Days 8 Hours 35 Minutes
Descent Statistics
    Loss on way out:7966 ft / 2428 m
    Route:Lion's Ridge
    End Trailhead:Cervinia  6726 ft / 2050 m
    Time:0 Days 11 Hours 5 Minutes

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