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Ascent of Mount Olympus on 2018-08-15

Climber: Harvest Mondello

Date:Wednesday, August 15, 2018
Ascent Type:Successful Summit Attained
Peak:Mount Olympus
    Location:USA-Washington
    Elevation:7969 ft / 2428 m

Ascent Trip Report

Mount Olympus West Peak: Ascent of the West Ridge Route via Blue Glacier (AG II, YDS 5.4, ~7 pitches (6 on the ridge, 1 on the summit block) 700") & descent of Blue Glacier Route - Crystal Pass Route. Hoh River Trail Approach. Roped travel.

For route beta see: www.mountainproject.com/route/114973736/west-ridge

Party of two: H (tf) & Scott
A video of our trip compiled by my climbing partner Scott can be found at: https://vimeo.com/285671046

The climb was adventurous type 1 fun but having to slog back to camp was type 2.

Permits:

The Ranger Station at the Hoh River Visitor Center had a very help full ranger that gave us route beta on the standard Blue Glacier Route including showing us photos of conditions. You must show up during business hours (between 7am and 5pm). It was $8 per night for back country camping in Olympic National Park. Many of the campsites have well maintained services that more than justifies the modest fee such as such as privy, bear line and emergency shelters (Glacier Meadow only). The climbing permit was pretty straightforward and the ranger used common sense to see that we were prepared for a technical mountaineering alpine climb.

Approach:

- Hoh River Visitor Center (576 elevation) to Glacier Meadows (17.5 miles, 4,300 elevation). Optional lower camp at Lewis Meadows (11 miles, 1k elevation)

Climb:

- Glacier Meadows to Lateral Moraine (Mountain Madness Rope)

- Lower Blue Glacier to Snow Dome

- Upper Blue Glacier to West Ridge

- West Ridge (600" of class 3-5.4+) to summit block & summit via the West Face (class 3 w class 5.3 moves - protect with double length slings).

Descent: Upper Blue Glacier to south side, thru Crystal Pass to Snowdome and down to Lower Blue Glacier.
Summary Total Data
    Total Elevation Gain:10093 ft / 3075 m
    Total Elevation Loss:10093 ft / 3075 m
    Round-Trip Distance:43 mi / 69.2 km
    Grade/Class:AG II / YDS 5.4+
    Quality:10 (on a subjective 1-10 scale)
    Route Conditions:
Rock Climb, Glacier Climb
    Gear Used:
Ice Axe, Crampons, Rope, Headlamp, Ski Poles, Bivouac
Ascent Statistics
    Gain on way in:8743 ft / 2664 m
        Gain Breakdown:Net: 7393 ft / 2253 m; Extra: 1350 ft / 411m
    Loss on way in:1350 ft / 411 m
    Distance:21.5 mi / 34.6 km
    Route:West Ridge - Blue Glacier
    Start Trailhead:576 ft / 175 m
    Time:3 Days 
Descent Statistics
    Loss on way out:8743 ft / 2664 m
        Loss Breakdown:Net: 7393 ft / 2253 m; Extra: 1350 ft / 411m
    Gain on way out:1350 ft / 411 m
    Distance:21.5 mi / 34.6 km
    Route:Crystal Pass - Blue Glacier
    End Trailhead:576 ft / 175 m
    Time:1 Days 



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