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Ascent of Mount Olympus-Middle Peak on 2018-08-02

Climber: Sherrie Trecker

Date:Thursday, August 2, 2018
Ascent Type:Successful Summit Attained
Peak:Mount Olympus-Middle Peak
    Location:USA-Washington
    Elevation:7929 ft / 2416 m

Ascent Trip Report

We summited the Middle Peak of Olympus during an 8-day Bailey Range Traverse. The top of the Hoh Glacier led us to the NE rock portion of the peak, where we encountered class 3-4 scramble terrain to reach the summit. With our heavy packs, 5 out of 6 of us opted to get a belay up the short 4th class move (it felt 5th class with a heavy pack). We used established rap slings to descend onto the Blue Glacier to continue our Traverse. A single 30m rappel does not quite reach the glacier from the established rap anchors, but it gets you close enough to be able to scramble the rest of the way down.

We descended Olympus via Crystal Pass. Just below the Pass is a very large crevasse that extends from cliff to cliff. It is about 6' wide at its narrowest; too wide to jump. We had to rappel about 15' into the crevasse to find a point narrow enough to get one foot over to the other side and climb out. It would be difficult to ascend Olympus this way at this point of the season; I would research routes other than Crystal Pass if attempting in 2018, or just wait until next year.
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