Ascent of Mount Thomson on 2018-08-05

Climber: Colin P

Others in Party:Laure-Lise S.
----Only Party on Mountain
Date:Sunday, August 5, 2018
Ascent Type:Successful Summit Attained
Peak:Mount Thomson
    Elevation:6554 ft / 1997 m

Ascent Trip Report

Camped at ridge lake.

Turnoff for the climbers trail around alaska lake was not obvious so a GPS track is helpful.
We stashed some gear in the basin next to the stream. Went up left through the boulder field to the second notch. From the second notch there is a gendarme to pass to get to the base of the climb (I did climb above which has an exposed class 4 step but there is an easier class 2-3 path north of the gendarme).
First pitch starts going left then up to a slung boulder. Second pitch straight up to a tree belay. Third pitch up and through a class 2-3 slab (new-ish stuck nut halfway through the slab), stopped at the tree toward the end of the slab. Forth pitch up to the false summit. Then quick scramble down the notch at the top. Fifth pitch goes left then up, stopped at a tree few feet short of the summit area as the anchor options on top are minimal.
Used a small rack from .2 to 3 (#3 was not really mandatory).

Went down via east ridge, first rap station easy to find, ~15 meters rap to another station (hanging station). Second rap ~25m , if you have a 70m do not go down to the end of the rope to the next ledge it goes nowhere and we had to scramble back up on mossy rock. Then scramble down on following a not-so-great climbers trail until you reach the basin.

Bring bug spray the mosquitos are relentless.

Good climb, descent was less enjoyable.
Summary Total Data
    Quality:7 (on a subjective 1-10 scale)
    Route Conditions:
Maintained Trail, Unmaintained Trail, Open Country, Exposed Scramble, Rock Climb
    Gear Used:
Rope, Ski Poles, Tent Camp
    Nights Spent:2 nights away from roads

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