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Ascent of Middle Sister on 2018-08-04

Climber: Karthik Krish

Others in Party:Sanket Patel
Date:Saturday, August 4, 2018
Ascent Type:Successful Summit Attained
Peak:Middle Sister
    Location:USA-Oregon
    Elevation:10047 ft / 3062 m

Ascent Trip Report

Four of us attempted this as a long day trip. Started from the Polecreek TH at 7AM. The first 4.5 miles are on a good well maintained trail through a burnt forest after which you will start following a obvious climbers trail towards the mountain. You will know you have to leave the main trail when you hit a significant creek crossing. About 0.1 miles into the climbers trail there will be a "Leave no Trace" sign.

Follow the climbers trail to the base of the Hayden glacier. We had micro spikes so we ascended the glacier directly to the saddle (you can also avoid this by following the trail to the saddle between Prouty point and North Sister but that makes for a much longer ascent). The glacier did have crevasses open but they were mostly visible could be avoided easily (we did not rope up but had helmets). Watch for rock fall near the saddle and Prouty point.

Once at the saddle the wind started to pickup and the ridge is all scree now in the summer. The goal here to stay high except to get around one vertical rock section to keep the rock fall danger low. The middle section of the ~800ft scramble is the worst and it gets better as you near the summit. Helmets will help here. We were the last team on the summit so had it for ourselves.

The descent was uneventful and the slog back through the burnt forest was annoying as expected. Got back by 9:15PM.
Summary Total Data
    Route:Hayden Glacier/North Ridge
    Grade/Class:Class 2
    Route Conditions:
Maintained Trail, Unmaintained Trail, Scramble, Exposed Scramble, Glacier Climb
    Gear Used:
Ski Poles
    Weather:Pleasant, Windy, Clear
GPS Data for Ascent/Trip


 GPS Waypoints - Hover or click to see name and lat/long
Peaks:  climbed and  unclimbed by Karthik Krish
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Note: GPS Tracks may not be accurate, and may not show the best route. Do not follow this route blindly. Conditions change frequently. Use of a GPS unit in the outdoors, even with a pre-loaded track, is no substitute for experience and good judgment. Peakbagger.com accepts NO responsibility or liability from use of this data.

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