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Ascent of Mount Jefferson on 2018-07-28

Climber: Laura Tiefenbruck

Date:Saturday, July 28, 2018
Ascent Type:Successful Summit Attained
Peak:Mount Jefferson
    Location:USA-Oregon
    Elevation:10497 ft / 3199 m

Ascent Trip Report

Mt Jefferson via Whitewater Glacier, from Woodpecker Ridge trailhead. Joined PCT to Jefferson Park, then ascended via the standard Whitewater glacier route. Camp at 8,000 ft on a moraine, with nearby open snow melt water source.

Many crevasse openings on the glacier travel, including some which impacted our route. We crossed a high snow bridge on ascent, to take a lower traverse back to high camp. We completed the snow traverse with 8 pickets and a 47m glacier rope as a team of 4 climbers, 11 am on the ascent, 2 pm on the descent and experienced steps blowing out. The rock scramble was straightforward, no rope needed for ascent or descent, though we chose to rappel off the summit with a 47m glacier rope and downclimb the rest.

Encountered 2 other parties of 2 on the route, one also from Whitewater and one group from Pamelia Lake. Everyone seems to prefer the Whitewater glacier route, even with the extra distance, since the views of Oregon and Washington are beautiful, and the Pamelia Lake route has a seemingly endless loose rock scramble to Red saddle.

Three days total for our trip, leaving the trail head at 9 am, arriving at high camp at 4 pm, leaving camp again at 7 am and returning at 5 pm on summit day, hiking out with a long stop at Scout Lake for a swim on day 3 and a long drive back to Seattle. Highly recommended climb, for anyone looking for an alpine bit of everything.
Summary Total Data
    Route Conditions:
Maintained Trail, Open Country, Stream Ford, Snow on Ground, Exposed Scramble, Snow Climb, Glacier Climb
    Gear Used:
Ice Axe, Crampons, Rope, Ski Poles, Tent Camp



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