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Ascent of Three Queens on 2018-07-28

Climber: Marcus Peinado

Other People:Solo Ascent
Only Party on Mountain
Date:Saturday, July 28, 2018
Ascent Type:Successful Summit Attained
Peak:Three Queens
    Location:USA-Washington
    Elevation:6687 ft / 2038 m

Ascent Trip Report

11 hours car-to-car
5:30 car to summit
1:15 on summit
4:15 summit to car

I took the Three Queens Lake route. The going was easy for the first 100 vertical feet. After that, I found myself in the worst tangled mess of slide alder I have ever encountered. Progress was extremely slow, and the thought of getting stuck there crossed my mind. After a few hundred yards, I crossed the creek to the south and got into forrested terrain. From here, the way to the lake was quite pleasant, though steep in places. I saw a huge bear and two cubs near the creek in the flat area below the lake and took a detour through steeper, brushy terrain to stay out of their way.

I scrambled out of the lake basin toward the north west and got back onto the ridge. After bypassing a few high points on the ridge I reached the snow basin mentioned on Summitpost. There was not much snow left. I reached the snow finger mentioned on Summitpost by hiking up in the moat between the summitblock and the snow field. Once there, I put on my rock shoes, stashed unnecessay gear and scrambled up to the summit ridge. The rest of the route to the summit goes straight up the ridge. The first part of the ridge is moderate. About 100 vertical feet before the summit, it steepens (class 4?). There is a lot of loose rock in this section, and I found it hard to trust any of the holds. This made the downclimb especially interesting.

The views from the summit were great. After about an hour on the summit, I was chased off by a dark cloud and thunder coming from somewhere beyond Hibox and a few raindrops.



Summary Total Data
    Total Elevation Gain:3967 ft / 1209 m
    Route:North Ridge
    Trailhead:2720 ft / 829 m
    Grade/Class:YDS 4
    Route Conditions:
Open Country, Bushwhack, Stream Ford, Exposed Scramble
    Gear Used:
Ice Axe, Ski Poles
    Weather:Hot, Calm, Partly Cloudy



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