Ascent of Mount Mystery on 2019-05-26

Climber: Dan Lauren

Date:Sunday, May 26, 2019
Ascent Type:Successful Summit Attained
Peak:Mount Mystery
    Elevation:7639 ft / 2328 m

Ascent Trip Report

Wanted to get both Mystery and Little Mystery, so wanted to approach from the saddle between the two called Gunsight Pass in the Olympic Climbing Guide. No easy options! Either bike and hike up the Dosewallips or hike in from Dungeness trailhead. So led a Mountaineers trip and decided to hike from Dungeness trailhead and camp at Home Lake and then hike Del Monte Ridge, mainly because good trail to Home Lake and shorter approach distance. Forecast was for showers to 1/10", but drizzled and rained about 1" on the approach, pretty wet by the time we got to Home Lake. Next morning clouded in and windy. Headed out 6:30am, gained the ridge at Constance Pass, couldn't see anything. Turned around and started back down, but then clouds started to lift, decided to head on out the ridge. Ridge runs ok except for a couple sections, big bypass at Twin Benchmark that took some time. Just kept plugging along, clouds kept lifting little by little, and after a couple of hours Mystery finally revealed itself.

Headed up the south ridge of Mystery, tricky routefinding, found some old cairns, rebuilt a few on the way out. Starts out a bit on the east side, then tucks in the west side. Steep scree and rock, several snowfields to cross with ice axe, snow quality was good (would be icy later season?), some stiff scrambling, but soft scree, would be quite difficult later in season when hardens up. Eventually get to an upper sandy bench/saddle and can see the summit up left and right. Olympic Climbing Guide is worthless at this point, took a long time to abandon it's directions and just figure out the route. Looked like a route would go straight up, so scouted it out. Route is a 3rd+ class scramble straight up from the bench, mixed rock and snow (used ice axe), about 250' ascent and then hit the upper ridge, easy scramble right about 200' to the summit. All 4 of us free climbed, single file due to rockfall danger. Did two single rope rappels back to the saddle, downclimbed the rest of the route.

By the time we got back to where we could descend to Gunsight Pass and get Little Mystery, we were out of time, so left for another day, got back to Home Lake at 8:30pm after a long ridge walk back with a couple of bypasses. Just too long of an approach from Home Lake, best bet is to camp at Sunnybrook Meadows if trying to get both peaks.

Click on photo for original larger-size version.
View of final 250' to summit ridge proper from the sandy bench. Olympic Climbing Guide is no help and plain wrong. Believe this is the final ascent pitch even if coming from Hal Foss direction (2019-05-26). Photo by Dan Lauren.
Click here for larger-size photo.
Summary Total Data
    Total Elevation Gain:2409 ft / 734 m
    Quality:8 (on a subjective 1-10 scale)
    Route Conditions:
Maintained Trail, Unmaintained Trail, Stream Ford, Snow on Ground, Exposed Scramble, Snow Climb
    Gear Used:
Ice Axe, Crampons, Rope, Ski Poles, Tent Camp
Ascent Statistics
    Gain on way in:2409 ft / 734 m
    Distance:12.4 mi / 19.9 km
    Route:South Ridge
    Start Trailhead:5230 ft / 1594 m
Descent Statistics
GPS Data for Ascent/Trip

 GPS Waypoints - Hover or click to see name and lat/long
Peaks:  climbed and  unclimbed by Dan Lauren
Click Here for a Full Screen Map
Note: GPS Tracks may not be accurate, and may not show the best route. Do not follow this route blindly. Conditions change frequently. Use of a GPS unit in the outdoors, even with a pre-loaded track, is no substitute for experience and good judgment. accepts NO responsibility or liability from use of this data.

Download this GPS track as a GPX file

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