Description:
Holland Peak is one of the many fine, craggy, remote, and generally unknown peaks that are found throughout Montana. It is the highest peak in the rugged and imposing Swan Range, as well as the highest summit in the western part of the vast Bob Marshall wilderness. It can be climbed as a day hike that involves some serious scrambling, but a massive vertical rise, brushy trails, and the threat of grizzlies makes most ascents lonely experiences.
Holland Peak rises above the Swan Valley on the west and "the Bob" on the
east. The west face is notable for its sheer rise above the beautiful Rumble Creek Lakes. The upper lake is in a hanging valley surrounded by the summit cliffs on its uphill shores, and a long, narrow cascade from its outlet drops down to the lower lake. The lakes are popular with fishermen, who usually outnumber the hikers in the area of the peak. The climb, however, is far easier than trying to ascend Swan Peak, the slightly lower peak 12 miles north that is the range's second highest summit.
Climbing Notes:
Start from the Cooney fire tower area near Condon, MT. Past the tower the access road dips a little to where trail #192 starts. Hike up this trail for about half a mile, to where a brushy and extremely steep herd path leads uphill right after a creek crossing. After levelling off the path bears right to the lower Rumble Creek Lake, winds around its forested shores, and then climbs steeply uphill alongside the cascading brook. To avoid this steep and treacherous section it is possible to travel cross-country to the left, up a series of low transverse rock ridges.
At the upper Rumble Creek Lake find the incredibly steep path leading up
the nose of the summit ridge, immediately south of the lake's outlet. Climb
the tussocky path to the gentle talus slopes above, then climb over the south summit to the col between it and the main summit. Tiptoe carefully across the slabs in the notch (it's a long way down!) and then climb the steeper talus to the summit. Strong hikers/scramblers shouldn't have any trouble making this a day hike if they start early enough, but the vertical gain is a solid 5000 feet. |
