Ascent of Mount Clarence King on 2017-07-03

Climber: James Barlow

Others in Party:Keith Christensen
Corrine Livingston
Sandra Hao
----Only Party on Mountain
Date:Monday, July 3, 2017
Ascent Type:Successful Summit Attained
Peak:Mount Clarence King
    Elevation:12861 ft / 3920 m

Ascent Trip Report

5.4? Seemed slightly harder. Maybe it was the exposure... We ended up to the left of the SE ridge n the S face, so we were able to crawl through the keyhole. From the crawl, you are at the base of the 4th class (I would say low 5th class) pitch with the squeeze chimney. I led with a pack on which was not ideal. The rest of the group saw me struggling with the pack in the chimney and opted to pocket snacks and cameras, chug some water and leave theirs below. I pushed mine ahead of me rather awkwardly... Once below the final blocks, we consolidated again and I led up the face climb portion that I would call closer to 5.5 or 5.6 while Keith spotted me bouldering style. Once on top of the south block, there is a nerve-wracking hop to the final summit block. Keith belayed me around the south block from below to prevent a catastrophic fall off the NW face. I summoned my courage and made the hop quite nicely. Once atop the large and comfortable summit block, I was able to sort of sling a cordalette around the summit horn (sketchy at best) to bring up the rest of the group one at a time. Once Corrine was atop first, I used her as a "meat belay" like canyoneering atop the cordalette as a backup to bring up Sandra. I then send Corrine down and used Sandra as a backup to bring Keith up. This way we always had 1 climber below should we need to shift to belaying over the summit block. After sending Sandra and Keith down, I removed the marginal cordalette and had Keith belay me from the NE side of the summit rock from below to allow me to downclimb the hop move to the south summit block. It was surprisingly easier to go down rather than up. He also belayed me with the rope over the south summit block while Sandra and Corrine spotted me. No need to leave any gear behind as this is one of the un-scarred Sierra summits without bolts on top or a nest of webbing. We rapped the 4th class pitch and another pitch below that on the SE ridge that we had not ascended. From there it is a little class 3 then class 2 or easier all the way back to the snow. The snow cups were hell on the descent. We arrived cold, wet, and tired in camp about 1 hour before sunset.
Summary Total Data
    Elevation Gain:5261 ft / 1604 m
    Route Conditions:
Open Country, Scramble, Exposed Scramble, Rock Climb, Snow Climb
    Gear Used:
Ice Axe, Crampons, Rope, Ski Poles, Tent Camp
Ascent Statistics
    Elevation Gain:5261 ft / 1604 m
    Extra Loss:3200 ft / 975 m
    Route:S Slope
    Trailhead:10800 ft / 3291 m
Descent Statistics
Ascent Part of Trip: Sixty Lakes '17 (4 nights total away from roads)

Complete Trip Sequence:
1Mount Gould2017-06-30
2Mount Gardiner2017-07-02 a
3Mount Cotter2017-07-02 b
4Mount Clarence King2017-07-03
GPS Data for Ascent/Trip

 GPS Waypoints - Hover or click to see name and lat/long
Peaks:  climbed and  unclimbed by James Barlow
Click Here for a Full Screen Map
Note: GPS Tracks may not be accurate, and may not show the best route. Do not follow this route blindly. Conditions change frequently. Use of a GPS unit in the outdoors, even with a pre-loaded track, is no substitute for experience and good judgment. accepts NO responsibility or liability from use of this data.

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