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Ascent of Mount Rainier on 2009-07-14

Climber: Viki Tracey

Others in Party:7 climbers from all over the States + 4 guides.
Date:Tuesday, July 14, 2009
Ascent Type:Successful Summit Attained
    Motorized Transport to Trailhead:Carpool
Peak:Mount Rainier
    Elevation:14411 ft / 4392 m

Ascent Trip Report

Goal of this trip was to see the view from the top and further develop my mountaineering skills and experience on more challenging terrain and over a longer trip. Undertook the trip with one of the major guide services, IMG (who I cannot recommend enough) and signed up as an individual (in the final analysis it was me and 11 guys!)

Route commenced at Paradise and we moved up to c. 9500 ft on Day 1. Mostly roped glacier travel. After an initial hour on the paved path we dropped down on the Glacier and were roped up for the remainder of the trip.

Day 2 saw us continue to move up the mountain to c. 11,500 ft. Mixed terrain, with some scrambling over icy rocks as well as the glacier work. Camped in one of these rocky patches and it was amazingly warm that night.

Rose at 11pm that night and began our ascent at midnight. Lowered down a rock step and then traversed across to the Kautz Ice Chute... the crux of the trip. Front pointing on crampons and ice axes a must... lots of fun working our way up the chute and in amongst the Penitentes. Above we ascended through a step snowfield filled with smaller Penitentes and then a long slog to the summit. We reached the top at about 8am, had 30 minutes on top before descending.

Route down was the same as on the way up. Descending through the ice chute was interesting! Glissaded down through the Turtle Snowfield and then back down into Paradise at about midday the next day.

Great trip.
Summary Total Data
    Route:Kautz Glacier Route
    Quality:8 (on a subjective 1-10 scale)
    Route Conditions:
Maintained Trail, Snow on Ground, Exposed Scramble, Rock Climb, Snow Climb, Glacier Climb, Ice Climb
    Gear Used:
Ice Axe, Crampons, Rope, Ski Poles, Guide, Tent Camp
    Nights Spent:3 nights away from roads
    Weather:Pleasant, Calm, Clear
Reasonable fog on Day 1 which then cleared for glorious sunny weather for the remainder of the trip.
Ascent Statistics
    Time Up:2 Days 12 Hours 
Descent Statistics
    Time Down:1 Days 

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