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Ascent of Island Peak on 2009-04-13

Climber: Les Zollbrecht

Others in Party:Jared Wolcott
Brian Jensen
Rick and Ann Westermeyer
Jon Fessler
Lal
Date:Monday, April 13, 2009
Ascent Type:Successful Summit Attained
    Motorized Transport to Trailhead:Airplane
Peak:Island Peak
    Location:Nepal
    Elevation:6164 m / 20226 ft

Ascent Trip Report

Left at 11:00pm. Summitted at 12:15pm. Gained 3,000 feet on steep rocky trails--sometimes shale. Attained a narrow spine at about 18,000, nestled between seracs that were ready to break off and tumble to their doom. Here we put on our harnesses and rigged for the glacier. We crossed a couple of large glacial bowls before coming to two step-overs to land on a serac and then continue up the glacier to the headwall. At about 10:00 we arrived at the bergschrund. Here we attached a fixed line up 400 feet of low-grade ice (WI 1). After about 1:45 we attained the ridge and followed fixed lines up the remaining 15 minutes to the summit. We returned down the same route.

Six of the seven in our team stood on the summit with one stopping 100 vertical feet from the summit due to AMS.

Long descent as we had to short-rope and direct one member down nearly 4,000 feet of ice, glacier then steep rocks. She recovered after rest at base camp: 16,580.

Absolutely beautiful. Great views of Makalu, Baruntse, Ama Dablam and the Lhotse face.
Summary Total Data
    Elevation Gain:3299 m / 10826 ft
    Elevation Loss:3299 m / 10826 ft
    Quality:9 (on a subjective 1-10 scale)
    Route Conditions:
Exposed Scramble, Glacier Climb
    Gear Used:
Ice Axe, Crampons, Rope, Guide, Porters, Hut Camp, Tent Camp
    Weather:Pleasant, Calm, Clear
Ascent Statistics
    Elevation Gain:3299 m / 10826 ft
    Route:Gokyo to Dinboche
    Trailhead:Lukla,   2865 m / 9400 ft
    Time Up:17 Days 
Descent Statistics
    Elevation Loss:3299 m / 10826 ft
    Route:Dinboche
    Trailhead:Lukla  2865 m / 9400 ft
    Time Down:3 Days 



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