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Ascent of Mont Blanc on 2004-09-09

Climber: Tim Benjamin

Date:Thursday, September 9, 2004
Ascent Type:Successful Summit Attained
    Motorized Transport to Trailhead:Ski Lift
Peak:Mont Blanc
    Elevation:4810 m / 15781 ft

Ascent Trip Report

We did the "three summits" route ascending from the Cosmiques refuge and descending via the Gouter hut. This is a fairly easy ascent which however does require good acclimatisation and fitness. We didn't actually go over the summits of Tacul and Maudit. There was a short (one pitch) of steep climbing, i.e. requiring gear placements, to get past the flank of Maudit. The final walk from Col de la Brenva to the summit was quite hard work because of the altitude. Our ascent was on a very fine day with some stunning views from the top. There were quite a few parapentistes leaping off from the summit. The descent was memorable for a bad reason, because around an hour after passing the Gouter hut (which is an abominable place! be warned!), my companion twisted and broke his ankle. We managed to cross the dangerous Grand Couloir and get to the Tete Rousse hut, where a helicopter came to rescue us, and we got a quick lift down to Chamonix hospital (which is a model of cleanliness and efficiency!)
Summary Total Data
    Route Conditions:
Unmaintained Trail, Snow on Ground, Scramble, Snow Climb, Glacier Climb
    Gear Used:
Ice Axe, Crampons, Rope, Hut Camp
    Weather:Pleasant, Calm, Clear

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