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Ascent of Gannett Peak on 2015-09-01

Climber: William Musser

Others in Party:Guide Joe Stern (Exum Guides)
Date:Tuesday, September 1, 2015
Ascent Type:Successful Summit Attained
    Motorized Transport to Trailhead:Car
Peak:Gannett Peak
    Location:USA-Wyoming
    Elevation:13804 ft / 4207 m

Ascent Trip Report

Executive Summary:

Attempted my 34th State Highpoint, Gannett Peak, from the north using Glacier Trail out of the Trail Lakes Trailhead south of the Town of Dubois with just me and an Exum Guide (Joe Stern). We backpacked a 56 mile route in 5 days with a total gain of about 12,800 feet. Because I elected a bonus peakbag of Talus Mountain off the highest saddle, the total Gannett backpack trip actually ended up about 59 miles and 13,500 feet of gain. Much of the snow was gone at this time of year (early September), so the typical snow routes gave way to more hiking, scrambling or rock climbing required. We sliced between the safe zone of the obvious crevasse field which was open in late season but only had to cross two crevasses nearer to the top to reach the crux bergschrund.

Two snow bridges were still intact at the Gooseneck Glacier bergschrund and we used the larger more northern snow bridge to cross the longitudinal gash in the glacier. The snow on the Gooseneck Glacier along the steepest area just above the bergschrund was very icy and breaking off in layers necessitating a mixed snow, ice, and rock climb along the northern side of the glacier which made things tricky. The snow fields at the upper most section of Gannett, on the other hand, had retreated back enough that the climb above the Gooseneck Pinnacle was mostly class 2 with some easy class 3 scramble free of snow other than in a few patches that were easily crossed.

Without porters or horses, this 5 day trip was a brutal effort for a once a year big trip - especially since I elected to hike and climb all five days in the heavy alpine boots developing blisters that by the end of the trip were outrageous.A little bout with a-fib the night before the final ascent was a bit sketchy as I did not want to hike 22 miles back lightheaded and there was no cell phone service but fortunately it stopped before our 3:30 AM wake up alarm. The acid reflux and dehydration I encountered on the difficult 3rd day up made things rough enough I was not sure if I was going to be able to complete the attempt, but fortunately, I was able to make my 34th consecutive State HP without having to turn back. 34 for 34 so far!

Personal Log follows:

Day 1 (Acclimation Hike & Gear Check Day):

This trip was to be my 34th State Highpoint and it is one of the hardest. Of course, the trip started off with a typical glitch. Lightening kept my flight from taking off on time in FL and by the time we landed in Salt Lake City, I missed my connecting flight to Jackson. I was supposed to meet at the Exum Guide Service at a specific time for a gear check and to sign my life away with forms, so now I was stuck. I thus, rented a car in SLC after midnight and drove through the night stopping only once to sleep alongside the road for 2 hours before arriving in Jackson at 5:30 AM their time, exhausted but at least in time to get in my acclimation hike before meeting the guide.

I drove straight up to the Teton Pass at elevation 8,431 and parked my rental car and waited for the sun to rise. I began my acclimation up Mount Glory to an elevation over 10,000 feet as recommended by the guide service. The trail was straight up the ridge with few well created switchbacks and the material was like being on ball bearings. I was wearing my alpine boots which are unforgiving and this started hots spots which would later on my approach to Gannett grew into half dollar size blisters.

Mount Glory is not a particularly spectacular hike. I had only about 3 hours up above 10,000 feet then had to get down to meet my guide. I hiked both Mount Glory Peaks and back to the feature called Moby Dick. This was the most interesting feature of the three as it had some rock and views of the Tetons. I returned the way I came getting in a total of 2,300 feet of gain in only 4 miles with about 3 hours total at or above 10,000 feet.

Then, I still had a little time before meeting my guide so I drove over to the the north side of the Tetons National Park and parked and hiked about 6 more miles up to Signal Mountain with a gain of a little more than 700 feet. In all, I squeezed in over 10 miles and 3,000 feet on no sleep all above 8 to 10k feet so a pretty good acclimation day.

At 3PM, I arrived at Exum Guide Service and met my guide Dr. Joe Stern. He gained a PhD in Geology, worked the corporate life a while and had decided to turn his life to being a profession guide in Moab and in Jackson and his passion for guiding, rock climbing, and geology. I had a grand old time alternating discussions about the rocks and minerals of the ranges with the history and evolution of rock climbing and techniques, routes, and gear. With our pack filled with food and technical climbing equipment we departed at 6 AM so we could drive to the cowboy Town of DuBois and hit trail trailhead around 8 AM.

Day 2 (First Approach Day):

I picked up Joe at Exum Guides at 6 AM and we were at Glacier Trailhead (part of the Trail Lakes use area and parking lot) south of the Town of DuBois at 8AM. We departed at 8:10 AM and headed up the Glacier Trail. It was steep with many switchbacks and since we were equipped for 6 days and climbing gear, my pack for the first time was fully exploited carrying over 50 pounds and Joe carrying probably 65 pounds with all the extra climbing gear.

The steep route took us from starting elevation 7,590, through a raging canyon creek and eventually up to the grassy saddle at 10,900 feet. This grassy saddle along Arrow Mountain had inviting open peaks that I set my sights on for a bonus peakbag later in the trip (Arrow Mountain or Talus Mountain). Those peaks look a lot easier to bonus climb than they are, especially if you attempt to bag them on your way out after 45 strenuous miles of hiking. This open saddle area descends into the roller coaster terrain where all the glacial lakes (and thus most used campsites) are located. These series of lakes at about mile 10 are beautiful. We made our goal to camp at 12.5 miles on Star Lake.

What I did not count on was how much additional gain there was passing from Phillips Lake to Double Lake to Star Lake. The USGS maps do not give the terrain justice; but you feel your heavy load up and down all the switchbacks. There is much additional gain going through all these wonderful lakes. By camping at Star Lake (the highest of the four options) we were acclimating at elevation 10,272 feet. Double Lake and Honeymoon Lake are both below 10k. We had many close encounters with large grouse along the way. Although other hikers mentioned bears, we never saw one.

Day 3 (Second Approach Day):

Our goal was to hike another 10.5 miles to the final flat area along Dinwoody Creek at Wilson Meadow to find a campsite. There was far less vertical gain and less distance to overcome so we arrived at camp early enough to go over gear for the technical part of the climb the following day. Leaving Star Lake one descends past Honeymoon Lake down to elevation 9,190. But, by the end of the day, our camp site was back at elevation 10,000 feet. You gain, lose, and regain so many times on the two approach days on this arduous hike that by the end of day 2 we were 23 miles into the wilderness and close enough to Gannett Peak now to have some very enticing views of the glaciers ahead yet, we were actually camping at a lower elevation the second night than the day before. We dealt with some off and on rain throughout the day so we became quite practiced in slipping in and out of rainsuits and backpack rain covers.

A one on one guided trip allowed me to practice the various hitches and knots and gear techniques that we would be using on rock and ice. Joe believed in having his clients learn as much as the tying as possible and actually participate more than I was used to and I greatly enjoyed his philosophy. He went over some pre-arranged double stand rappelling techniques that would speed up our descents and we practiced them before dinner. My worst fear at this point was how my feet had not made out well after three days of non-stop hiking. The hot spots on my feet from the acclimation hikes had now grown to be blisters about a half- dollar size on each heel and I was developing blisters on each big toe now too.

Day 4 (Summit Day):

The plan was to have 2 summit days in case of bad weather. It had rained the day before and the weather report out of Jackson placed this day with the highest chance of rain. We were hoping to bag the peak on day 3 anyway. Fortunately, the rain had come a day earlier and the weather would be good all day.

We awoke at 3:15 AM and I was so worried about my blisters, that I spent too much time repackaging my feet in mole skin and duct tape and left little time to eat. I made the mistake of only having a little granola (perhaps 250 calories worth) before we departed at 4:20 AM. We brought plenty of snack foods so I figured I would just eat along the way. But the remaining approach hike was so difficult that I became depleted of calories and then when things got more technical there was less opportunity to eat. This later become a big problem for me. I really should have started eating sooner.

The hike out of Wilson Meadows up to the Glaciers was quite an adventure in the dark. We continually crossed streams – many that were rampant and the water was glimmering in the full moon so brightly against the rocks that at times we thought we were seeing headlamps ahead – but it was always water reflections in the streams. The many streams we had to cross providing nothing but make-shift log crossings. Gannett Creek in particular had many braided outlets and some of the log crossings in the dark were challenging balancing acts. Then we got lost. The clearly well-used Glacier Trail intertwined in different use directions and the main path appeared to dead end at one of the major crossings. We went back and forth over the same creek crossing and retraced our steps many times trying to locate the correct Glacier Trail but lost about 45 minutes going in circles before we successfully found the correct path. It was surprisingly difficult to get a bearing on which side creek we had crossed since where were far more actual side tributaries than what our maps showed.

We finally arrived at the glacial river flow of Dinwoody Creek and we could start to see the glaciers ahead as daylight broke. Several miles later we were at the “boulder field.” This section was one the longest, most tedious boulder field I have ever crossed. I do not know how much time we spent navigating through this obstacle course but it was demoralizing and burned a lot of energy. My 250 calorie breakfast was not sustaining my energy. We discussed how much water to carry as our summit pack weights with all the emergency provisions, extra clothes, food and climbing equipment were still in the 25 to 35 pound range. My second mistake of the morning – I did not estimate how much water I would need with the exertion and bring enough water to keep me hydrated. I forced down another 100 cal bar to get me to 350 calories but I could tell I was becoming weak and disinterested in food. I was reminded of how a similar situation had developed when climbing Mount Rainier.

Once we got out of the endless maze of the boulder field, we were treated with nice views of the glaciers ahead but the new obstacle was a steep grassy toe ridge with braided streams from the glacial melt. Seeing this could provide water later and suggested we could still refill water at higher elevations, I continued to drink from my camelback and ascended. At 11,600 feet we could see the snow and ice ahead and when we first touched the toe of the glacier it was dirty slippery ice. We elected to climb the rocky ridge on the left side and gain more altitude before strapping on the crampons.

Joe then saw where he wanted to insert into the glacier and route around the crevasses. He instructed me to suit up for glacier travel with our helmets, ice axes and crampons. He led a very steep couple of pitches over the lower section of the Gooseneck Glacier well below the Gooseneck Pinnacle. There is a huge nasty bergschrund north of the Gooseneck bergschrund and I was relieved to learn that that was not the one we had to cross! The challenge in this lower part of the glacier is to navigate around the many open crevasses in the late season. We first climbed the glacier in a very steep NW bearing as if we were going to do use the northern couloir then Joe swung us around the bunched up crevasses and adjusted our bearing headed in a more SW direction up another steeper section towards the lesser bergschrund that protects the upper Gooseneck glacier. Finally, the snow ascent with crampons became less steep and above the tightly spaced gnarly crevasses but guarding the crux move ahead was a few remaining smaller crevasses that were easier to cross than to travel around.

Joe approach the first challenge and found a small snow bridge across the crevasse and checked it carefully with his ice ax and determined it was firm and we could walk over it. He had me drop into a full arrest position in case the bridge did collapse on his passing but the snow was good and held. He dug in on the other side on belay and protected me as I crossed. The final crevasse was narrow enough to stride over and as I passed the 2 foot gap I glanced down at what was surprisingly a lot deeper and colorful chasm than I expected. The pitch became suddenly steeper as we climbed up the guarding bergschrund. Joe found a pre-carved ledge and anchored us with an ice screw. This is where the famous bergschrund snow bridges are located and they are not at all what I had envisioned. They are not flat bridges like found over the crevasses but are distorted shapes on highly sloped terrain. I let out rope as Joe explored his options and we decided to try the northern most snow bridge over the bergschrund.

The Bergschrund Crossing and Crux Pitch:

This feature and the pitch above it was the crux of the route. The bergschrund is where the glacier pulls itself free from the rock of the mountain and leaves a big gaping opening (like a trench in the snow) running perpendicular to the flow of the glacial ice. Between the upper glacier and lower glacier, the trench like feature pulls apart but snow and ice buildup during the winter and in specific locations form “bridgse” over the gap. The slope of the bridge is not flat like a roadway bridge -over this bergschrund it appeared more like the slope of a roof on a house. Holding up the “roof” of the overall snow bridge was a very vertical wall of snow-ice about 12 to 15 feet tall. This wall extends out of the trench and up to the roof.

At the steepest part of the wall the roof had already collapsed but the wall was a shorter, cleaner, ascent to gain access to the roof. At the top of the wall was a surprise feature best described as climbing onto the blade of a hatchet. The wall narrowed down to some ridiculous dimension at the top like 12 to 18 inches thick and was sharp with no insufficient dimension to climb over or walk on and no roof. But like a hatchet blade, the top of the wall was strong like steel. The snow felt like carved ice.

Joe, climbed up the right side of the wall where the slope was perhaps 75 to 80 degrees and the snow a bit softer than closer to the roof of the snow bridge. When he reached the top of the wall he found that he was on the hatchet blade and could not get on it so he traversed back to the left and worked his way up over to the roof by me and set another ice screw above us for fall protection. The other side of the roof of the snow bridge was the start of the next pitch of glacier but the snow was all hard and icy.

Joe carried a more aggressive ice ax, a cross over between snow and ice climbing and he chipped away at the crusty ice making small foot holds. This steep area of the glacier that plunged into the bergschrund had poor snow. The material was very icy and sheets of the ice would slide away on some of the attempts to set the ax so he traversed over to the nearby rock wall and set protection in a crack in the rock with a stopper. He then up-climbed off of this sketchy section of snow-ice into a 5.2 to 5.3 rock climb setting protection using physical features. I lost sight of him when he entered the rock but after about ten minutes later he called out for me to follow the pitch.

I retraced his route pulling protection in what was an interesting couple of pitches of mixed snow, ice, and rock. I attempted his advice to avoid the hatchet blade and come straight up the 80 degree section of the wall. But that part of the wall was hard as ice. I could barely get my crampons in and about half way up the wall I became uncomfortable with a bulge that appeared to reach or exceeded 90 so I began sliding to the right where the wall was less vertical where Joe had ascended and the ice started to feel like snow again and the angle dropped to more like 75 degrees.

I could not get on top of the blade as Joe had found. It was an unusually sharp feature but so strong you could hold on to it with your hands and walk laterally along the top of the wall until the blade faded out to had an actual top of wall to scale onto. Once mounted, I could then shimmy across the remaining blade with both legs to the roof. As one scoots across the wall to the roof, the left side is a steep drop back down to crevasse field below and on the right a moderate drop into the bergschrund where the collapsed roof gave what appeared to be a safe bottom. Later I would realize that “safe” floor was actually a ceiling over a deep tunnel that bores under the snow as part of the bergschrund. The bergschrund feature was far more complicated than one sees upon approach as it is more than one lateral laceration across the glacier with some secondary and tertiary parallel channels.

The actual snow bridge roof crossing – the part that I expected to be difficult or a bit dangerous, ended up being the easy part. I dug my points in the snow and used my ax as a dagger over the sloped roof of the bridge wall and then looked for my next challenge. The screw protecting Joe’s ascent was back to the left a bit on the beginning of the icy and steep part of the upper glacier bowl. I removed the second ice screw, clipped it to my belt and then began chipping extra ice ax holds and boot steps. The snow gear I owned was not as aggressive as desirable and would not easily climb compacted snow ice in this section. I headed right again over to rock and took out the stopper and then more carabineers attached to fixed webbing around features and continued to climb Joe’s route both in and out of rock and ice until finally his rope took me up into the easier rock. I was unable to get my ice ax into my unused belt loop so I continued to climb the rock with crampons and ice ax to his safety ledge. A very interesting pitch of snow, ice and rock. After that crux area, Joe set another pitch but finally we were above the icy section, and the line took us back out onto the couloir where the snow felt like snow and the slope dropped to a more manageable 45 degrees. We were able to finish the glacier with an easy snow climbing to the top of the ridge just below Gooseneck Pinnacle.

All this work depleted me of remaining calories so it was time to replenish. I was so dehydrated now I could not get but one fig bar down and I gagged on the almond spread pita. I was down to a few sips of water and could not swallow the dry snacks now. I had made the critical mistake of not eating a sufficient breakfast and hydrating early. With a total of no more than 500 calories in my gut since 4 AM and now a good 5 hours into the alpine ascent, I realized my appetite would abandon me and I was developing a fatigue-dehydration gag reflex. I was going to have to do the rest of the mountain without food.

The climb to the top from this ridge technically was an easy scramble but with me becoming dehydrated and calorie deficient I became weaker and weaker and the ascent from 13,000 to 13,800 was grueling. There were a few places where we needed our ice axes for protection from a slip and fall on steep snow to our right of the ridge line but by and large, the route was class 2 and class 3 to the summit. Along the way I sucked water draining down from a snow melt on a boulder. It tasted earthy and musty but I had little choice as I was out of water.

Finally, the summit appeared mercifully and without one of those annoying false peaks. I was proud to reach my 34th State HP on the first attempt. I also was glad I stuck this one out as if we had turned back there is no way I would have willed myself to repeat all this again the following day. Joe offered me some gummie candy which unlike our other snacks was the first food of any type that I had been able to swallow in hours. The 4 little bears tasted great but was far from the calories I needed to get my body back - it was late in the day and we needed to get down.

Joe set some really fun pre-rigged double strand rappels that went fast and we were down and over by the bergschrund pretty fast. On the final rappel, we suddenly heard an enormous rock slide. The third slide that we had heard that day but this one was nearby and spectacular. Only a quarter of mile away in clear view we could see the rock pummeling down in a steep couloir and I was able to film it. Joe said it was the most impressive slide he had ever seen up close before – the power of nature.

We continued down the line which on rappel this time bi-passed the snow bridge altogether and we actually rappelled into and out of the bergschrund and secondary channels. There were three separate fractures making up the bergschrund with the one in the middle being the big deep crack one sees in all the internet photos. We rappelled into the shallowest collapse in the middle fracture and it was perhaps 12 feet deep until you hit pre-collapsed hardened snow. Looking to you right in the bottom of the collapsed snow you could finally see the hole that extents well below us and how deep the actual fracture is as it tunnels below the very roof we had been climbing earlier. The second channel was the deepest and coming over the lip to a very brief free rappel created a refreshing burst of snow in the face and down into my jacket. I stood at the bottom of the collapse and examined the tunnel and decided to climb out without taking a photo. Something about hanging around in this feature longer than necessary just did not appeal to me. Climbing up and out of the main channel of the bergschrund, I rappelled into the third and shallowest channel feature and then climbed out of it and was finally out of the bergschrund and looking down on my belay partner.

We then found some late afternoon snow in the lower glacier that was soft - perfect for a more rapid descent and were able to quickly plunge step away from the crevasse field and over to the rocky ridge and down to a nice glissade area still picking up more precious time. We found a steam under the glacier and filled our water bottles and I drank needed water. Unfortunately, my stomach was reacting to the hours of dehydration and lack of food and rewarding my efforts with acid reflex and I became nauseated.

The glissading and snow ridge shortcut was fun but short-lived as we ended up on a chalky eroded section of ridge where the only way down now was steep talus, mud, and dust. I ended up sliding on my butt for about half of the700 feet slide to more stable ground and was exhausted by the constant rock sliding. By the time we finally reached the boulder field I was having very bad reflux. I could not get any food in me and even water was making me nauseated. In the middle of the boulder field I dropped to my knees and heaved for some time but only stomach acid came up as there was no food in the tank all day.

Needless to say the retracing of our predawn steps was very difficult and we were fighting to get back to camp before dark. My pedometer claims it was only a 43,000 step day to obtain the 4,000 feet of gain but with all the technical climbing and lack of calories to sustain the effort, it felt like 430,000. We made it back to camp after 16 hard hours of climbing but I had obtained my goal. It was 8:30 PM just as it became dark. I was still unable to eat so I apologized to Joe for not being helpful with any camp duties and simply crawled into the tent for badly needed recovery. In the morning I would feel better and eat my dinner for breakfast.

Day 5 (Return Day)

As planned, Joe and I slept in till 8 AM. We got up slowly made a huge breakfast and I ate my dinner from the night before and drank lots of hot chocolate. We did not leave till 10 AM. Our goal was to make it now a 3 day backpack trip out and take our time and let me recover. We hiked slowly and ate often, and I felt my energy come back. We backpacked about 10 miles and found the best campsite just about 300 feet below Star Lake. My appetite was back by dinner.

Day 6 (Bonus Peak Day and Final Return)

We awoke and broke camp at left at 8 AM with a plan to camp about 7 miles away on the other side of the saddle. The trailhead where our car was 13 miles away with a lot of regain left to crest the grassy saddle at nearly 11,000 feet and I wanted to use the “extra day” we now had to peakbag another mountain. I felt stronger this morning than I had felt since we had left on the first day. I was finding I could move quickly with the now lighter packs and my energy restored. We actually achieved the saddle much earlier than expected and now I was contemplating, Talus Mountain, Arrow Mountain or the Talus Mountain companion on the other side of the trail with a mixed grassy-rocky approach. Feeling like I could tackle all three with my renewed energy, I chose Talus Mountain first.

Talus Mountain as it turns out was all I needed to quench my peakbagging thirst. It is far steeper and far rockier than the other two and it is misleadingly tall. It should not be called as Talus Mountain. I propose the correct name to be Big Ass Boulder Mountain! That is not talus up there….it is a huge boulder field. I thought it would be easiest to head toward the gentler western slope and head up the ridge but that was not easy. The boulders became the size of cars and there was a lot of up and down climbing that was tiring. Once I reached the ridge, it was a maze of false peaks. The backside of the mountain had some steep smooth slabs that were easier to hike along but I promised my guide to stay on the ridge and so I did. Difficult obstacles required me to downclimb and re-climb all along the ridge at least 4 times before I realized it was best to stay about 50 feet below the ridge until I was sure I found the actual summit.

The summit had very rewarding views in every direction. My final and last look off to the south of the beautiful glaciers we had played in 2 days before. It took over an hour to summit from the saddle and with the break and downclimbing of the class 2 and 3 rock, I was gone just under 2 hours total. A highlight of the trip was seeing a gray fox high up the mountain hunting pikas. I saw him repeatedly dodging in and out of the rocks and looking back at me keeping his distance.

Finally, I arrived back at the saddle, ate lunch, and we were off. My legs were too tired after 5 days of abuse to tackle the other 2 nearby peaks and frankly, I wanted to get down and have a shower and real food. So, we hiked all the way back to the car. It was 13 miles of backpacking plus the 3 miles of scrambling for the peak so a 16 mile day! At the car, I collapsed and Joe cooked up our last dinner.

On the way out, Joe and I encountered and photographed a large grouping of mountain sheep including some young sheep and lambs. Then, Joe showed my several large rocks in the area with known petroglyphs from indigenous people in the area and I took more photos. I got Joe back to Exum just as the sun set and a day early. He was a good guide and a fun person to backpack with. He is very talented as a rock climber and I found him to be a very good and patient teacher. I would recommend him and as always Exum as guides. I then spent the night at the Alpine Climbers Ranch nearby in the national park for only $25 instead of paying $150 to $250 for a room in Jackson.

Click on photo for original larger-size version.
The bergschrund (with 2 snow bridges still intact) protecting the final snow climb ascent up the steeper section of glacier next to Gooseneck Pinnacle (on the left) (2015-09-01). Photo by William Musser.
Click here for larger-size photo.
Summary Total Data
    Elevation Gain:10799 ft / 3291 m
    Elevation Loss:7494 ft / 2284 m
    Distance:48.5 mi / 78.1 km
    Grade/Class:1,2,3,4,and up to 5.
    Quality:9 (on a subjective 1-10 scale)
    Route Conditions:
Maintained Trail, Unmaintained Trail, Open Country, Stream Ford, Snow on Ground, Scramble, Exposed Scramble, Rock Climb, Snow Climb, Glacier Climb, Ice Climb
    Gear Used:
Ice Axe, Crampons, Rope, Ski Poles, Guide, Tent Camp
    Weather:Varied see TR
Ascent Statistics
    Elevation Gain:9279 ft / 2828 m
    Extra Loss:3065 ft / 934 m
    Distance:28 mi / 45.1 km
    Route:Glacier Trail to Gooseneck Glacier to Scramble
    Trailhead:Parking Lot for Trail Lake Glacier Trail TH  7590 ft / 2313 m
Descent Statistics
    Elevation Loss:4429 ft / 1350 m
    Extra Gain:1520 ft / 463 m
    Distance:20.5 mi / 33 km
    Route:same as way in
    Trailhead:Saddle between Talus Peaks near Arrow Mtn  10895 ft / 3320 m
Ascent Part of Trip: Gannett

Complete Trip Sequence:
OrderPeak/PointDate
1Gannett Peak2015-09-01 a
2Talus Mountain2015-09-03 b



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