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Ascent to Mount Rainier-Disappointment Cleaver on 1980-07-15

Climber: Dave Fulton

Date:Tuesday, July 15, 1980
Ascent Type:Unsuccessful - Turned Back
Point Reached:Mount Rainier - Disappointment Cleaver
    Location:USA-Washington
    Elevation:12000 ft / 3657 m
    Remaining Elevation:2411 ft / 735 m (10% left to go)

Ascent Trip Report

We flew down from Kodiak AK. looking for a big one to climb.We pulled a major alcohol thingy the night before the climb up from Paradise. The Mountain was completely visable under clear skies. That would end!
Started out early in the A.M. hung over. Reached camp Muir in a white out. Followed the communication cable to camp. Ranger was waiting for us outside. The weather cleared and we spent a wonderful day waiting for the night ascent. Then the weather turned to crap.
Turns out there was a Radio guy and a friend on the summit broadcasting. They needed help to get down.That's when the Ranger (world class climber- I will try to get his name in here) approached my team Keith Engleman and Gil Murry; to form a 4 man group to carry supplies to the summit.
We started out in a moderate storm, crossed the first glacier went up the slope turned the corner and the went into the face of the storm. We crossed the next glacier and arrived at the bottm of Disappointment cleaver. The lead team arrived and called off the rescueattempt. We turned around and returned to camp Muir.
The next day was beautiful but, we had to return to Kodiak. So the attempt was over. I returned to the Mountain just for a look in March 2005 but, it was covered in clouds.
Keith and Gil returned in 1981 and made the summit.
Summary Total Data
    Route Conditions:
Unmaintained Trail, Snow on Ground, Snow Climb, Glacier Climb
    Gear Used:
Ice Axe, Crampons, Rope, Ski Poles, Hut Camp



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