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Ascent of Mount Redoubt on 2014-08-02

Climber: Rob Busack

Date:Saturday, August 2, 2014
Ascent Type:Successful Summit Attained
Peak:Mount Redoubt
    Location:USA-Washington
    Elevation:8969 ft / 2733 m

Ascent Trip Report

After crossing the Redoubt glacier and coming to the rock "fence" between you and the south-side snowfields, you need to climb the 3rd class spot right smack in the middle, at the lowest point of the pass, it's the easiest way.

The final bit to the summit is a steep, narrow V-shaped gully zig-zags up and has a little of every scramble class, including some 5.0 climbing just before the cannon hole. Party-induced rockfall is the biggest danger, followed by the exposure. Three rappels offer an alternative to downclimbing.

1st rappel: requires 30m rope, 20ft cordelette to beef up anchor, and gets you from the summit to the cannon-hole.
2nd rappel: requires a 30m rope, probably a tied double-runner to beef up the anchor, and gets you from the cannon-hole's chock stone to temporary flat ground.
3rd rappel: a 50m rope would be best, but shorter works too if you watch for the rope ends then downclimb some 4th class. A 13' length of webbing would beef up the anchor.
Summary Total Data
    Route Conditions:
Snow on Ground, Exposed Scramble, Glacier Climb
    Gear Used:
Ice Axe, Crampons, Rope, Tent Camp



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