Ascent to Kagbeni on 1999-09-24

Climber: Ben Lostracco

Others in Party:Raj
Date:Friday, September 24, 1999
Ascent Type:No Summit Goal
    Elevation:2799 m / 9186 ft

Ascent Trip Report

DAY #12 (SEPT 24) .... RANIPAUWA(3700M) TO KAGBENI(2800M) .... 2.5(58)hours, 9(100)km.

"seeda jannus .... straight ahead."

Visited the walled Buddist/Hindu temple complex of Muktinath with Raj, Subba's group and the Aussie couple (Michael and Anna), the next most holy place in Nepal after Pashupatinath. Pilgrims have been coming here for centuries. We took off our boots and washed our hands at the Vishu Temple with its 108 water spouts prior to visiting the place.

The trail now descends the Kali Gandaki River Valley to Pokhara, staying on the eastside (left) on this first day, a very open arid environment with a huge outstanding panorama.
We went thru a police check point as we left Kanipauwa after visiting the Temple. As we all walked thru one part of town, men on horses, I was reminded of an old west. We went thru a few small villages as we descended to Kagbeni for a very short day, a long fairly gradual descent with only a few steep sections, very enjoyable. It was overcast/sunny and windy when we arrived.
A lot of animals grazing high up on the slopes (goats, cows and horses) a big difference to the Marsyandi Valley ..... this is the Mustang District of Nepal, beautiful small horses with decorative blankets, met a guy that made these blankets at Jomson, gave me his business card.

We checked in at Kagbeni's Shangrila Hotel around 13hoo hours ..... good facilities, first standard toilet that I've seen since starting out, only it didn't have water 'til later in the evening. The place was full of flies when we got there but they magically disappeared after 17hoo hours.
I tried to call Rose after lunch, not in so I called/talked to Linda (15$).

We visited the gompa (Tibetan Buddists) Thupten Samphel Ling in mid-afternoon with Raj, British and Aussie couples and their porters (the aussie couple told me the pass was clouded-in with no views when they arrived about 1 hour after I did) The monks act as tour guides for this 520 year old gompa, opened/showed us a 500 year old Prayer book. All of these places are culturally amazing.

Dozens of animals herded thru town every morning/evening from their daily grazing in the mountains, its like a stampede, caotic and dusty, you got to get out of the way, lot of activity and nothing like the quaint Marsyandi Valley villages.


Summary Total Data
    Elevation Gain:152 m / 500 ft
    Elevation Loss:152 m / 500 ft
    Route Conditions:
Maintained Trail
    Weather:Cool, Windy, Overcast
Ascent Statistics
    Elevation Gain:152 m / 500 ft
    Extra Loss:152 m / 500 ft
    Distance:9 km / 5.6 mi
    Route:down kali gandaki river
    Trailhead:ranipauwa  2799 m / 9186 ft
Descent Statistics
    Elevation Loss:0 m / 0 ft
    Trailhead:kagbeni,shangrila hotel  2799 m / 9186 ft

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