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Ascent to Chamje on 1999-09-15

Climber: Ben Lostracco

Others in Party:guides and trekkers
Date:Wednesday, September 15, 1999
Ascent Type:No Summit Goal
Place:Chamje
    Elevation:1430 m / 4692 ft

Ascent Trip Report

DAY #3 (SEPT 15) .... NGADI(930M) TO CHAMJE(1430M) .... 9(15 3/4)hours, 12(22)km.

"dhan yab haad .... thank you."

I got up 5 times to pee during the night, luckily I had my pee bottle, otherwise I would have had to negotiate a ships ladder on the way to the outside bathroom. I paid Raj 7$ for last night's drinks, I found out later that he ripped me off, can't be trusted.
I chatted with a Dutch guy who is doing the Circuit all alone in 8 days .... a bit of a race.
Left without breakfast, not hungry.
A real steep climb to the hill-top village of Bahundanda (elev 1310m) and another police check point, gave them a pen/pin. Had breakfast at a hotel run by a white European with a Nepaleese wife, Tracy and Stephan arrived as we left.
Passed a Floor Mill powered by a water fall, lady didn't want photos taken but Raj insisted. In the Ghermu area passed thru very fertile/rich farms of rice, sugar cane, vegetables, a lot of new construction.
Stopped for tea then later crossed a suspension bridge back to the west side of the Marsyandi River and lunch at Syange .... 2 ladies sitting/breast feeding at the center of the span.
At Jagat a bunch of women approached us selling their goods, I bought a bracelet and a watermelon (60 cents), gave one lady a pin. It was 3 oclock and I was tired with all the ups and down, 2 really steep climbs and numerous short breaks today, I felt like stopping here but decided to move to Chamje, arriving about 1h15 hours later, another steep climb just before arriving. I was told that this is a Tibetan village, Raj doesn't seem know/offer the people's identity of the different villages.
All the trekkers from day #1 are here tonight except for Darryl plus an Israel couple.
Nepal's trail design so far stays high above the river, up and down with very steep ascents to the villages. No switchbacks to speak of because of the narrow gorge.
Life on the trail and in hill villages is most eye-opening .... the trail is the life-line of the village, everything that it needs is brought in on-foot/on-the-backs of porters .... they carry chickens, building materials, food, drinks, bottled water, beds and matresses, large sheets of plywood/corrugated iron, plastic round vats, etc, etc. Really tough, hard-working, strong people and very fit, you don't see any overweight people here. They are small in stature, no bald heads so far. Also they've built long rock-ledges-seats for the porters to lay down their loads at rest areas and villages ...... this whole porter scene is truly an amazing part of life here, seen every day.
There is only one street to speak of in the villages (built on the steep slopes) .... the trail or "main street", and everythings takes place on the trail. You see kids doing man's work or running around nude, bare chested women, lot of dogs and shit, washing, carpentry work, etc.
Raj and other guides are well received by the locals because they bring in business. Raj is helpful in explaining things. It seems to be a peaceful place, I am thankful to be here.
Lhasa Lodge sort of an unfriendly/poor facilities. Feeling slugish/lack of energy but ok, I got a start of a cold, took a tylenol.

"I CELEBRATE A CLIMB WHEN I GET TO THE BOTTOM ..... BY THE TIME I GET TO THE TRAIL HEAD, I'M DONE."
Summary Total Data
    Elevation Gain:501 m / 1641 ft
    Elevation Loss:0 m / 0 ft
    Route Conditions:
Maintained Trail
    Weather:Raining, Hot, Calm, Overcast
Ascent Statistics
    Elevation Gain:501 m / 1641 ft
    Distance:12 km / 7.5 mi
    Route:up marsyandi river valley
    Trailhead:ngandi  929 m / 3051 ft
Descent Statistics
    Elevation Loss:0 m / 0 ft
    Trailhead:lhasa lodge, chamje (tibetan village)  1430 m / 4692 ft



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