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Ascent of Volcán Antisana on 2013-12-21

Climber: Dawn Weaver

Others in Party:Mountain Madness group of 4 clients
2 guides
Date:Saturday, December 21, 2013
Ascent Type:Unsuccessful - Turned Back
    Motorized Transport to Trailhead:4x4 Vehicle
Peak:Volcán Antisana
    Location:Ecuador
    Elevation:5486 m / 18000 ft

Ascent Trip Report

Camped at end of 4WD road in national park and alpine start around 1230 AM for summit. Trail to lower glacier was rocky but short. Lower glacier was icy and hard but not too steep. Mid-glacier was the most fun climbing, avoiding crevasses by weaving and stepping over them and following typical line of normal route. Beautiful views after sunrise of surrounding peaks and sister peak of Antisana but upper glacier was collapsed since the last guided climb and was not passable to the summit. We were approximately 1,000 feet or so from the summit. The glacier ended in a dead-end with walls of glacier ice and no route up. Perhaps the ridge from the sister summit could have been reached earlier in the climb and followed to the summit but it was also windy and cold at that altitude and after looking around for a route to either side we descended.
Summary Total Data
    Grade/Class:Class 5, Grade IV
    Quality:9 (on a subjective 1-10 scale)
    Route Conditions:
Glacier Climb
    Gear Used:
Ice Axe, Crampons, Rope, Ski Poles, Guide, Tent Camp
    Weather:Cold, Windy, Clear
Ascent Part of Trip: Ecuador 2013

Complete Trip Sequence:
OrderPeak/PointDate
1El Corazon2013-12-16
2Volcán Iliniza-Pico Norte2013-12-18
3Volcán Iliniza2013-12-19
3(Attempt) Volcán Antisana2013-12-21



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