Ascent of Volcán Iliniza-Pico Norte on 2013-11-10

Climber: Janos Arnosky

Others in Party:Gustav Sexauer -- Trip Report or GPS Track
Date:Sunday, November 10, 2013
Ascent Type:Successful Summit Attained
    Motorized Transport to Trailhead:4x4 Vehicle
Peak:Volcán Iliniza-Pico Norte
    Elevation:16831 ft / 5130 m

Ascent Trip Report

Took bus from Quito ( quitumbe station) to Machachi and then the blue and white bus to El Chaupi from the market square in Machachi. To catch the blue and white bus stand in front of the yellow building on the southeast side of the square. Once in El Chaupi we stayed at a very nice hostel called la llovizna. This hostel was amazing. They had no less than four wood burning stoves going so we were able to dry our rain soaked cloths as well as heat our frozen bones.

The bad news: the law says a guide is required to climb mountains over 5000 meters in Ecuador.

We hired a guide.

The semi-good news: lots of people climb it without guides.

The good news: the climb was amazing. It had snowed the night we were in our hostel so the mountains had a good bit of snow on them and the people at the Refugio were amazing. We had a guide named Freddy and he was pretty cool. To get him, go to the tourist information in the town(a small beat up building that does not look like it functions for anything until you get inside and it's pretty cool). In thee ask the lady for Renaldo. He's your man.

Start your hike at 5am because the sunrise on Cotopaxi is amazing

Also, we got told it was $90 for each person for a guide(horrible tourist trick). Don't pay that. Renaldo changed us $40.

Lastly, if I were to do it again I would try and hack it without a guide.
Summary Total Data
    Route Conditions:
Rock Climb
    Weather:Cold, Calm, Clear
Great sunrise.

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