Ascent of The Tooth on 2013-08-09

Climber: Sarah Holt

Date:Friday, August 9, 2013
Ascent Type:Successful Summit Attained
Peak:The Tooth
    Elevation:5604 ft / 1708 m

Ascent Trip Report

SW Face - Climbed as a team of 3, with two ropes. Approach as if for the main South Face, but continue past final gully scramble another 100 yards or so. Start of the route is 3 dihedrals or open books. I led up the first pitch to the obvious tree, slung with about 5 or 6 slings. 5.5 - 5.6? Difficult to find pro placements. About halfway up the pitch, there is a large open book with slick slides that would take some awkward moves to get into, and no really good pro placements nearby. I chose to move out onto the face on the right, which has better climbing, but still no placements...I was very runout here. Don't fall here, you would definitely deck. After about 30 feet (felt like forever) you can get back over toward the left and find some placements, then its easy climbing to the belay. Mindy led the next pitch, also had some difficulty finding pro. She ended up down climbing back quite a ways to find a place to build an anchor. 3rd pitch is someone more straightforward, 5.6 climbing for about half a pitch, then scramble to the belay tree, where the route joins up with the South Face route. We scrambled a bit until we reached the start of the catwalk pitch or flake pitch on the right. I led the right flake pitch up to the final rappel station. Short pitch, 5.4? There's a stuck cam in here that I slung for good measure. Rappel down the South Route, 3 or 4 single raps. Left TH at 7:30am, base of the climb at 10, summit at 2pm. Back to the cars by 6, Mexican food in North Bend by 6:30!
Rack - used lots of small cams, bring some double slings. Leave the big cams/hexes at home.
Summary Total Data

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