Ascent of Mummy Mountain on 2013-04-27

Climber: BMS 914

Others in Party:Rich Stephens
----Only Party on Mountain
Date:Saturday, April 27, 2013
Ascent Type:Successful Summit Attained
    Motorized Transport to Trailhead:Car
Peak:Mummy Mountain
    Elevation:11529 ft / 3514 m

Ascent Trip Report

This was a hike and crampon recovery mission as follow up to our earlier attempt on 2/2/2013. We took the same route, this time with much less snow on the trail,though by the time we got near Mummy Spring there were some big areas still covered and we did some unexpected postholing, with me in approach shoes and shorts. Near the base of the summit plateau, the terrain became steep with lots of snow. At first I was able to follow Rich, who was breaking in his new mountaineering boots and kicking steps for me. But near the very top this became treacherous as the soft snow on top wasn't adhering to the ice layer below, and not having an ice axe I nearly fell on the steep snow several times.

Rich wanted to traverse the east side of the plateau and find a chute leading to the summit, but this would have involved even more steep snow travel, so I couldn't do it. We came to a saddle just southeast of the summit at around 11390'. The cliffs to the west seemed shear and required additional descent, so I elected to climb up the near vertical 60' face. About halfway up the route became awkward and had lots of loose limestone, and I wondered if I could make it up. Of greater concern was Rich trying to do it in mountaineering boots, which I deemed highly unlikely. So faced with the prospect of having to downclimb a 60' pitch of probably 5.4 - 5.5 loose limestone, I backed off.

Rich decided to give it a go after taking off his boots and just climbing in socks. He was able to make it up, so we sent his boots up a piece of cord one at a time. The backpacks proved problematic, as they kept getting hung up on the sharp limestone. We ended up leaving them.

After a quick and brief trip up the remaining 100' vertical or so to the summit, we noticed that the cliffs to the west of the saddle were in fact much easier to climb than we thought, so we downclimbed there, went back to the saddle and retrieved our packs, and then went back up this route to the summit plateau again (but not all the way back up to the very summit), as we decided to take the standard route (North Loop Trail to the scree slope off the Southwest ridge) back to the trailhead.

This route avoided the snow problems, but was longer and had a lot of regain. It was a bit of a slog, but went pretty fast in the end as we hardly stopped during the return journey.

The GPS track attached doesn't show the topmost portion of the route, as I left it with my pack in those portions of the trip. The stats below include estimates for the extra portions not shown on the GPS. Also, I did not include our lengthy stop while searching for the crampon, which we never did find.
Summary Total Data
    Elevation Gain:4537 ft / 1382 m
    Elevation Loss:4537 ft / 1382 m
    Distance:11.9 mi / 19.1 km
    Grade/Class:Class 5 Low
    Quality:5 (on a subjective 1-10 scale)
    Route Conditions:
Maintained Trail, Unmaintained Trail, Open Country, Snow on Ground, Scramble, Rock Climb
    Weather:Pleasant, Calm, Clear
Clear sunny day
Ascent Statistics
    Elevation Gain:3448 ft / 1051 m
    Extra Loss:298 ft / 90 m
    Distance:5.2 mi / 8.4 km
    Route:North Loop Trail to Mummy Springs
    Trailhead:North Loop trailhead  8379 ft / 2553 m
    Time Up:3 Hours 48 Minutes
Descent Statistics
    Elevation Loss:4239 ft / 1292 m
    Extra Gain:1089 ft / 331 m
    Distance:6.6 mi / 10.7 km
    Route:Scree slope to Trail Cyn/North Loop Trail
    Trailhead:North Loop trailhead  8379 ft / 2553 m
    Time Down:3 Hours 18 Minutes
GPS Data for Ascent/Trip

 GPS Waypoints - Hover or click to see name and lat/long
Peaks:  climbed and  unclimbed by BMS 914
Click Here for a Full Screen Map
Note: GPS Tracks may not be accurate, and may not show the best route. Do not follow this route blindly. Conditions change frequently. Use of a GPS unit in the outdoors, even with a pre-loaded track, is no substitute for experience and good judgment. accepts NO responsibility or liability from use of this data.

Download this GPS track as a GPX file

This page has been served 420 times since 2005-01-15.

Copyright © 1987-2018 by All Rights Reserved. Questions/Comments/Corrections? See the Contact Page Terms of Service